This section is from the book "Mrs. Lincoln's Boston Cook Book", by Mary J. Lincoln. Also available from Amazon: Mrs. Lincoln's Boston Cook Book.
The subjects of "The Arrangement of the Table,'
"Dinner-Giving," and "Bills of Fare" have been fully treated in other cook books, and it would be difficult to add to what has already been said. Hints on garnishing, carving, and appropriate combinations of dishes have been given in connection with many of these receipts; and want of space forbids anything more than some general rules.
Above all things, attempt nothing in style or expense beyond what you can well afford. There is no more paltry ambition, nothing that contains more certainly the seeds of unhappiness and disaster, than such a desire for "empty show," which all sensible people must despise.
Let your breakfasts be of wholesome and substantial food. The system needs nourishment in the morning after the long, unbroken fast of the night. The practice of taking only a cup of tea or coffee with hot biscuit, and possibly pie or doughnuts, gives a very poor foundation for the morning's labor, which is and should be the hard labor of the day. Milk, coffee, or chocolate, mushes, fruits, potatoes or bread, meat, fish, or eggs, in some of their simple and digestible combinations should form the basis of the breakfast. The morning meal should be taken as soon as possible after rising. Any prolonged bodily exertion or exposure to the early morning air, before the stomach is fortified by food, is now condemned by the majority of physicians.
The midday and evening meal may vary with the occupations and habits of the family; but a regular hour for eating should be observed, whether the more substantial meal come at noon or night; and if at night sufficient time should be allowed for digestion to be completed before sleeping. A supper of cold bread and cake or pie is neither appetizing nor satisfying for those who have been hard at work through the day. "Something warm or hearty, something for a relish," every man craves for supper. Toast, brewis, warm tea-cakes, cocoa, oatmeal, warmed-over potatoes, cold meat, made dishes, eggs, oysters, etc., are far better than the common supper of sweets.
Every one may have clean, if not fine, table linen. An under covering of cotton flannel or felt made to fit the table is desirable, as it prevents noise, and a linen cloth may be laid over it more smoothly than over the bare table. Thin tablecloths remain fresh longer if stiffened slightly with very thin starch, but heavy damask requires no stiffening. Keep the cloths in a drawer large enough to hold them without much folding. Avoid making many folds in ironing, and in handling them fold always in the creases. In laying the cloth, place the centre of it in the centre of the table, and have the folds straight with the edges of the table. Crease the cloth round the edge of the table, that it may drape smoothly.
Lay a plate, right side up, for each person. If the table be long, place one plate at each end, and those at the sides opposite each other. Place the napkin at the left of the plate, and at dinner place a piece of bread between the folds of the napkin. Place the knives, butter plate, and tumbler at the right of each plate, the forks at the left, and the soup and dessert spoons in front, the handles toward the right hand, - the number of each depending upon the number of courses. The fruit dish or flowers should occupy the centre of the table; the salt and pepper, butter, jelly, pickles, etc., at the comers. Place the various dishes on the table in regular order, straight with the table, or, if at an angle, let there be some uniformity, never helter-skelter. The cups, plates, and dishes for hot food should be heated in hot water or in a warming-oven. Use a spoon to place ice in delicate glasses or pitchers; or put in the water first, and then the ice, to avoid breaking.
Do not let the table become disordered during the meal. The dishes, plates, etc., should be removed noiselessly, one by one; and never piled one upon another, after the hasty fashion of second-class hotels.
If the serving be done by the host and hostess, it is more convenient for them to sit at the sides of the table; the host serving the substantial dishes, and the hostess the tea or coffee, vegetables or entrees, puddings, and the dessert Where there are servants to do the waiting, the host and hostess may sit at the ends of the table, as there they can command a better view of their guests, and see that they are properly served. The hostess should serve the soup, salad, dessert, and coffee; the host, the fish and meat; and the servants, the vegetables and entrees.
At a dinner served a la Russe, the fruit and flowers only are placed upon the table, the several courses being served from the side.
Many volumes have been written upon table etiquette. Some of the suggestions they contain are practical; others useless. What is considered proper at one place or time is not approved under other circumstances; and those desirous of observing the usages of good society are often sorely perplexed to keep pace with the variations of fashion. But if, instead of following mere arbitrary rules from the low standpoint of "style." we would take for our guidance the best definition of true politeness as given by Dr. Watts, - "Love manifested in an easy and graceful manner," - we need never be at a loss as to "what to do and what not to do." A moment's observation will show the strictness of etiquette maintained in the family in which you may be a guest, - for instance, whether the servants are expected to take entire charge of serving everything, or whether the family reserve to themselves something of the happy privilege of courtesy and thought for each other; and you may forget with them, in the mutual interchange of the proper attentions, that freezing formality which sometimes forbids that you should seem to know or care how your neighbor fares. "Think not of yourself, but of what will contribute most to another's comfort or convenience," remembering that for the time being utter deference should be paid to the evident arrangement of the house at which you are. This is the safest standard for table etiquette, as well as for good manners every-where. No selfish person can ever be truly polite. Children should be carefully trained in table manners as soon as they are old enough to come to the table, and accustomed to perfect politeness; then there will be no fear of mishaps, nor special training needed for "company," nor any awkward habits to be overcome in later life.
After a meal brush up any crumbs that may have fallen, lest they be trodden into the carpet. Collect the knives, forks, and spoons by themselves. Put any food that may be used again on small dishes, never on the dishes used in serving. Scrape the dishes, empty and rinse the cups, and pack neatly near where they are to be washed. Brush the crumbs from the cloth, instead of shaking it, then fold and put it away carefully.
Never pile nice china or any other dishes in the dishpan. Begin with a pan half filled with hot soapy water. Keep the soap in a shaker made for that purpose, or in a tin cup; make a strong lather in the cup, and use as needed. Never leave the soap in the dishpan to waste and stick to the dishes. Wash glasses first. Slip them in sideways, so that the hot water will touch outside and inside at once, and then there will be no danger of breaking from unequal expansion. Wash one at a time, and wipe instantly without draining or rinsing. Wash the silver and wipe at once, as it keeps bright longer if wiped out of hot soapy water. Keep a cake of silver soap at hand, and rub each piece of silver as soon as discolored. Then wash the china, beginning with the cups, saucers, pitchers, and least greasy dishes, and changing the water as soon as cool or greasy. Place these dishes in the rinsing-pan with the cups inside up and plates resting on the edges, that they may be scalded inside as well as outside, and drain quickly. Scald and wipe immediately.
"Dave's"method of washing dishes, though not in general use, has been proved satisfactory. Place a pan of cold water between the washing and rinsing pans. After washing and wiping the glasses and silver, add more hot water, and wash the china first in the hot suds, then dip each dish instantly into the cold water, and stand it on the edge to drain in the rinsing-pan. The cold water rinses off the hot suds, and the sudden change of temperature dries the dishes almost instantly; and they require little or no wiping. They will be neither "sticky nor streaky."
Where there is only one woman for "cook, waitress, hostess, and kitchen girl," it is well, after the table is cleared and the dishes neatly packed, to wash first the kitchen dishes, and pots and kettles; then with clean water and towels wash and wipe the table dishes. The hands will be left in much better condition than when the pots and kettles are washed last.
 
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