The juice of mushrooms approaches the nature and flavour of gravy meat more than other vegetable juices. Dr. Kitchiner sets a high value, and not without reason, upon good mushroom catsup, "a couple of quarts of which," he says, "will save some score pounds of meat, besides a vast deal of time and trouble." The best method of extracting the essence of mushrooms, is that which leaves behind the least quantity of water. In all essences, it is quality, not quantity, to which we ought to look. An excess of aqueous fluid in essences renders them less capableof keeping; while in flavouring sauces, etc. a small quantity is sufficient, so that by this means you do not interfere with the thickness or consistency of the thing flavoured. Mushrooms, that is, field mushrooms, begin to come in about September. There are several varieties of these fungi, and they differ very much, both in their wholesomeness and flavour. The best and finest flavoured mushrooms are those which grow spontaneously upon rich, dry, old pasture land. The following is the mode of making good mushroom catsup, or, as Dr. Kitchiner calls it, "double catsup."

Take mushrooms of the right sort, fresh gathered and full grown, but not maggoty or putrescent; put a layer of these at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and sprinkle them with salt; then put another layer of mushrooms, sprinkle more salt on them, and so on alternately, mushroom and salt. Let them remain two or three hours, by which time the salt will have penetrated the mushrooms, and have made them easy to break; then pound them in a mortar, or break them well with your hands; then let them remain in this state for two days,not more, mashing them well once or twice a day; then pour them into a stone jar, and to each quart add an ounce and a hair' of whole black pepper, and half an ounce of allspice; stop the jar very close, and set it in a saucepan or stew-pan of boiling water, and keep it boiling for two hours at least. Take out the jar, and pour the juice clear from the settlings, through a hair sieve into a clean stew-pan. Let it boil very gently for half an hour; but to make good or double catsup, it should boil gently till the mushroom juice is reduced to half the quantity, or, in other words, till the more aqueous part is evaporated; then skim it well, and pour it into a clean dry jar or jug; cover it close, and let it stand in a cool place till next day, then pour it off as gently as possible (so as not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the jug,) through a tamis, or thick flannel bag, till it is perfectly clear; add a table-spoonful of good unflavoured spirits (brandy is dear and not a whit better than common spirits of wine of equal strength) to each pint of catsup, and let it stand as before. A fresh sediment will be deposited, from which the catsup is to be poured off gently, and bottled in half pints, washed with spirit. Small bottles are best, as they are sooner used, and the catsup, if uncorked often, is apt to spoil. The cork of each bottle ought to be sealed or dipped in bottle cement. Keep it in a dry cool place; it will soon spoil if kept damp. If any pellicle or skin should appear upon it when in the bottle, boil it up again with a few peppercorns. It is a question with us, whether it would not be best to dispense with the spice altogether, and give an addition of spirits. When a number of articles are added to the catsup, such as different spices, garlic, eschalot, anchovy, etc. etc, the flavour of the mushroom is overpowered, and it ceases to be, properly speaking, mushroom catsup.

462. Mushroom Catsup without Spice is made thus: - Sprinkle a little salt over your mushrooms. Three hours after, mash them; next day, strain off the liquor, and boil it till it is reduced to half. It will not keep long, but an artificial mushroom bed will supply sufficient for this, the very best of mushroom catsup, all the year round.

463. Mushroom Powder may be made of the refuse of the mushrooms, after they have been squeezed, by drying them well in a dutch oven, or otherwise, and then reducing them to powder. If the mushrooms themselves are dried and pounded, the powder will be much stronger. Tincture or essence of mushrooms, we apprehend, might be made, by steeping dried mushrooms in spirits.