This is accomplished through the medium of ice. Of itself it does not contain sufficient frigorific power to congeal a liquid body to the required consistence without an auxiliary; the usual one employed is that of salt. As a general rule, take about two pounds to every six pounds of ice, which I think will be nearly the quantity required. I cannot state precisely, as it is the custom to mix it by guess; but note, the freezing quality depends on the quantity of salt which is used, consequently, the more there is mixed with the ice the quicker are the creams, etc, frozen.

Pound a sufficient quantity of ice small, and let some salt be well mixed with it; place the pot containing the mixture in a pail, which you fill (the latter) with pounded ice and salt as far as the lid; strew a handful of salt on the top of the ice, let it remain a few minutes until you have similarly disposed of others, as three or four may be done at a time if required, then whirl them round briskly by means of the handles for five minutes, take off the lids one at a time, and with the spatula stir or carry the unfrozen part well round the sides, turning the pot also with the left hand; continue this for two or three minutes, which serves to soften what has already frozen, as well as helps to freeze the remaining portion; then scrape it from the sides, put on the lids, whirl round again briskly, as before directed, repeating the same operations every four or five minutes. As it forms into consistence, do not spare your labour in well working or mixing it together when you scrape it down, so as to make it perfectly smooth and free from lumps, for the smoothness of your ice depends on this operation; continue to freeze until the whole is well set. Ice when well frozen should be about the consistence of butter, tough to the feel, of a good colour, and without any lumps in it. Those which contain too much syrup cannot be frozen to the degree required, and those which have too little freeze hard, and feel short and crisp, like compressed or frozen snow, which arises from having too many watery particles in it, by the excess of either water or milk according to the nature of your ice. In either case it may be ascertained when you commence freezing, by the first coat which is formed round the sides. It should then be altered by either adding more cream or water, with juice, or pulp of fruit, or other flavouring matter in proportion, as the case may be, if too rich, and vice versa, by the addition of more syrup, etc, when poor; but at all times the necessity of altering them should be avoided, as the component parts cannot be so perfectly blended together, without considerable extra labour, as if they were properly mixed at the commencement.

During the time of freezing, or after the creams, etc, are moulded and set up, if there is too much water in the pail, the frigorific power is lessened; a little increases it, as at first it is only a solution of the salt; but as the ice dissolves and mixes with it, it decreases; therefore, when it comes to the top drain it off, and fill up with fresh salt and ice.

When the ices are properly frozen, take out the pots, drain off the water, empty the pail, again replace them and fill them with fresh salt and ice, as before; then spread the creams over the sides of the pot, when they are ready for use, if they are intended to be served in a shop or by glassfulls. Should it be required for moulds, line the bottom with a piece of paper, before you put it on; if there is no impression or figure on the top, you may cover that also with paper; in filling them press it well in, so as to fill every part; leave a little projecting above the surface to form the top, which you put on; pack the moulds in a pail, and fill the vacancies with pounded ice well mixed with plenty of salt, strew a handful also on the top.

Ices should be moulded from half an hour to an hour before they are required to be served.

When you want to turn them out, wash the mould well in cold water that no salt may remain on it; take off the bottom and top, and the ice will come out easily.

For fruit moulds, fill each with either cream or water ice of the same kind as that which you would represent, and for the better resemblance to nature, preserve the stone with the stalk and leaves of each, which put in their proper places, allowing the leaves to project outside; close the mould, wrap it in paper, and place it in ice as others; when you want to turn them out, wash the shape in lukewarm water to take off the paper, and be careful that you do not injure the leaves, as they will often be found frozen to it; dip it again in water, open it and take out the ice, which you colour to nature with camel's-hair pencils and liquid colour (see Colours); the down or bloom is represented by dusting it with dry colour in powder, tied in a small thin muslin bag, or by means of a dry camel's-hair pencil; line the shelves of the case with paper or vine leaves, and put in the fruit as it is finished; let the case be surrounded with pounded ice and salt, as for moulds.

Ices may be divided into three classes, viz: cream, custard, and water. These derive their names from the basis of which they are composed, the flavouring matter mixed with it giving the other definition: thus we say, raspberry cream and raspberry water; but custard ices are not so particularly defined as the others by the basis, and either only receives the name of the flavour given to it, or as that of cream.