Choose them by the hardness of the vent, which shows that they are fat; and when new, they are limber-footed. In other respects, choose them by the same marks as other fowls. There are three sorts; the gray, green, and bastard plover or lapwing.
Green plovers should be dressed the same as woodcocks, without drawing, and served on a toast. Gray plovers should be stewed. - Make a forcemeat with the yolks of two hard eggs bruised, some marrow cut fine, artichoke bottoms cut small, and sweet herbs, seasoned with pepper, salt, and nutmeg: staff the birds, and put them into a saucepan, with just a sufficient quantity of good gravy to cover them, one glass of white wine, and a blade of mace; cover them close, and let them stew very gently till they are tender; then take up the plovers, lay them in a dish, keep them hot; put a piece of butter rolled in flour, to thicken the sauce, let it boil till smooth; squeeze into it a little lemon; skim it, and pour it over the plovers.