When salmon is fresh and good, the gills and flesh are of a bright red, the scales clear, and the whole fish is stiff. When just killed, there is a whiteness between the flakes, which gives great firmness; by keeping, this melts down, and the fish becomes richer.
Clean and cut the fish into slices, put it in a dish, and make the following sauce: - Melt an ounce of butter, kneaded in flour, in a pint and a half of gravy, with two glasses of Port wine, two table-spoonfuls of ketchup, two anchovies, and a little cayenne. When the anchovies are dissolved, strain and pour the sauce over the fish, tie a sheet of buttered paper over the dish, and send it to the oven.
Put on a fish-kettle, with spring water enough to well cover the salmon you are going to dress, or the salmon will neither look nor taste well: (boil the liver in a separate saucepan). When the water boils, put in a handful of salt; take off the scum as soon as it rises; have the fish well washed; put it in, and if it is thick, let it boil very gently. Salmon requires almost as much boiling as meat; i about a quarter of an hour to a pound of fish: but practice only can perfect the cook in dressing salmon. A quarter of a salmon will take almost as long boiling as half a one: you must consider the thickness, not the weight: ten pounds of fine full-grown salmon will be done in an hour and a quarter. Lobster Sauce.
The thinnest part of the fish is the fattest; and if you have a "grand gourmand" at table, ask him if he is for thick or thin.
If you have any left, put it into a pie-dish, and cover it with an equal portion of vinegar and pump water, and a little salt: it will be ready in three days.
Season with pepper and salt, some slices of bacon, fat and lean together, a pound of veal cut thin, and a pound and a half of beef; put these into a deep stewpan, then a fine piece of fresh salmon cut out of the middle, then pour in just as much water as will cover it, and let it simmer over a gentle fire till the salmon is almost done, then pour the water away, and put in two quarts of white wine, with an onion cut in slices, some thyme, and sweet marjoram, picked from the stalks; let them stew gently, and while they are doing, cut a sweetbread into thin slices, then cut the slices across, and stew them in a saucepan, with some rich gravy; when they are done enough, add a quarter of a pint of essence of ham; take up the salmon, lay it on a dish, and serve with the sweetbread, and its sauce poured over.
The tail of the salmon is first cut off near and below the last fin, the fish is then cut up the back, keeping the bone on one side, and then cut up into pieces of half a pound each, the blood well washed out of the fish in cold water, but the scales not to be removed; a pickle to be made of salt and water, strong enough to bear an egg, and, when boiling, the fish to be put in, and boiled very quickly for fifteen minutes. During the boiling, the scum to be taken off carefully as soon as it rises. Sauces; - lobster, melted butter, and anchovy sauce.
The hardest water is preferable for boiling salmon.