A. Foundation of Puddings: liquid and starch or gelatine.

B. Eggs added for: lightness, consistency and food value.

C. Fruit or equivalent for flavor.

D. Suet, butter, cream for richness or whipped cream for lightness.

E. Sweet in some form as sugar or molasses in foundation or sauce.

F. Garnishes.

Sweets compose the last course of a dinner or luncheon. In this course are included cake, pastry, and hot and cold puddings, etc., which Thudicum speaks of as the "forerunner of the dessert." In this course also are included custards, charlottes, creams, jellies, and ices, in the preparation of the more delicate of which form is often placed before substance. The dessert proper includes fruit, fresh or preserved, nuts, and bonbons; it is often succeeded by a tiny morsel in the nature of a hot or cold savory, or of cheese.

When sweets are presented, hunger has been appeased and the dishes should be light in character and elegant in appearance. If more than one dish be presented in this course, as it may be at an elaborate and formal dinner, the more substantial dish precedes the more delicate and the hot precedes the cold dish.

Puddings in which suet is used are appropriate only after an otherwise light meal and during cold weather. These and other puddings of similar nature are not in as great demand as formerly, the tendency of the time being in favor of more easily digested sweets. Those in which cream predominates are especial favorites. In the past, the American housewife, as a rule, has paid quite as much attention to the sweet as to the substantial part of the dinner, but, with our present pronounced leaning toward French cookery and bills of fare, we are likely in time to give less prominence to the sweet course and finish the refection, be it luncheon or dinner, with a salad and bit of cheese. The desserts served so often in this country, in which cream abounds, are rare in France, also in the southern part of the continent. Indeed, except, perhaps, among a certain class in Russia, there is no country where food supplies are generally so lavishly used as in the United States.

The foundation of hot puddings is liquid and some starchy material, as rice, tapioca, cornstarch, cereal, bread crumbs, etc., etc. The foundation of most cold puddings is the same; or, instead of the starchy principle, gelatine is used to give consistency. To any pudding, hot or cold, eggs may be added for lightness or to increase the consistency or food value; fruit or its equivalent for flavor, suet (in hot), butter or cream for richness; and in cold puddings cream is also used for lightness. Two ounces of starchy material or one ounce of gelatine will thicken a pint of liquid.

Starchy Materials

Cornstarch, rice, tapioca (minute, quick cooking and "tapioca exotique "), macaroni, and bread crumbs (stale bread passed through a colander) are the principal starchy ingredients in puddings. Tapioca is stirred into the hot liquid and is cooked when it becomes transparent.

If grains be used, the pudding is cooked when the grains are tender. If arrowroot, cornstarch, rice flour, etc., are used, these, mixed smoothly with milk or evenly with sugar, need be cooked in the hot liquid until they clear from the sides of the saucepan. Cooked less, though they may jelly when cold, they have an uncooked pasty taste. These puddings, though often cooked in the oven, will be smoother and require less attention if they be cooked in a double-boiler and then turned into a buttered baking dish and set into the oven for final cooking.

Gelatine

The gelatines on the market at the present time are particularly good. They are practically odorless when heated; if not select a different brand. The granulated gelatines, which may be easily and accurately measured, soften in cold water very quickly and may then be dissolved in a little hot water or in the hot mixture. In cold weather gelatine dishes will set in half an hour if exposed to the outer air; in summer ice is essential to quick process.

Chocolate

The judicious use of chocolate changes many an otherwise homely and unappetizing dessert into a bonne bouche desired by every one.

Chocolate for use in cooking is bought in half-pound cakes scored in eight bars or squares, each one of which represents an ounce. Vanilla and cinnamon are the two flavors that best harmonize with chocolate. Stick cinnamon, scalded in the milk, and used as the foundation of any dish in which chocolate is to be used, insures an added richness and spiciness of flavor that is invariably commended. Ground cinnamon is often more convenient, but in either case let it be of the best grade. Currant jelly, apricot marmalade, nuts, and candied fruits, steeped in wine, are palatable additions to any dish in which chocolate appears. To use chocolate, put it in a saucepan over hot water, and when melted add a tablespoonful or more of sugar and two or three of boiling water, and stir and boil until a smooth glossy liquid is formed, then add to hot milk or other ingredients.

Raisins And Currants

Raisins may be stoned with a utensil made for the purpose, or with a pair of scissors. They stone more easily after soaking in water a few moments. Sultanas are without seeds and excellent in flavor.