In our own grounds, a plot of Norway Spruce is planted in beds of six rows each, with a distance of about eighteen inches between the rows; the plow and cultivator can not pass between them, and they have to be hand-hoed. Between the beds, however, there is a space of three or three and a half feet, which is regularly dressed with the plow and horse-hoe; and the rows on either side of this space have in three years grown nearly twice as large as those dressed with the hand-hoe only. One year we took it into our head to grow a crop of Carrots among some rows of young Apple trees. The rows were three and a half feet apart, and we sowed one row of Carrots in the center. This prevented the use of the plow and cultivator, and we could use only the hand-hoe. In the fall we observed that a portion of the plot of Apple trees not cropped with Carrots, but worked in the usual way with plow and cultivator, were about twice as large as the others, and they were really marketable two years sooner.

We find that deep culture has the same effect on root crops - Beets, Carrots, Turnips, etc, - as it has on trees; the frequent use of the cultivator will produce twice the bulk on the same ground as hand-hoeing merely. This is our experience, at least.

But we will be told that it is impossible to use the plow and cultivator in orchards and gardens, and on lawns, door-yards, etc We know this; and our object in alluding to them is to show the influence of deep culture around the roots of trees. Where they can not be used, we roust substitute some other implements that will serve the same purpose. The common hoe will not; it is a poor implement, useful in a few instances only, and far more popular in this country than it deserves to be. In the case of young orchards, we would by all means advise cropping the ground with something that would require constant cultivation - Potatoes, Carrots, Beets, Turnips, etc. Grain, Grass, and Corn crops, should be avoided as utterly ruinous to young trees. Corn is less so than the others, because it is plowed and hoed; but it smothers the trees, if young, and puts a complete stop to their growth. Where a grain crop may be absolutely necessary in an orchard, a strip should be left in a line with the rows of trees, so that the plow and cultivator might be used.

In plowing near trees, a slow and gentle horse should be used, with long traces! which give steadiness to the plow. The whiffle-trees should be as short as possible, and have on each end a piece of cloth or India rubber, so as to prevent injury in case it strikes the tree. In this way a careful, handy man, can plow within a few inches of the trunk of the tree. In plowing directly over the roots, the furrow should be regulated so as not to cut or tear them, and the plowing should always extend at least two or three feet beyond the roots.

Where the use of the plow and cultivator is impracticable, a forked hoe, (fig. 1,) with long and stout prongs should be used repeatedly cut the roots; and it is better than the common hoe, because it enters the ground deeply, and gives it a thorough stirring up. Such an implement as this is extensively used in France. In the nurseries it is in general use, the rows being generally so closely planted as to prevent the passage of a plow or cultivator between them. The latter implements are considered by European nurserymen as somewhat barbarous at any rate.

Fig. l.

We have known people to be so fearful lest they should disfigure their lawn, that they would endeavor to plant trees in the smallest possible openings, and would immediately replace the turf around them. Is it not evident that a tree so placed must either die or grow feebly. To plant a tree on a lawn properly and successfully, a wide hole should be cut for it - twice or three times as wide as the roots - and the whole of this circle should be kept clean and deeply pulverized for several years, until the tree has sent out numerous and powerful roots in all directions. No matter when or how trees are planted, this after-culture is absolutely necessary; and we will say to those who have planted recently, that unless they bestow such labor on their trees, better for them now to pull them up and burn them, and thus save all further expense. Mulching - which means covering the ground with half-decayed manure, decayed leaves, or some such material - is a commendable practice in the management of young trees, and of dwarf fruit trees, and all others whose roots are near the surface, and confined to a small space. It not only keeps down a growth of weeds, but guards the roots against frequent changes and the ill effects of a drying atmosphere.

This, however, will not render cultivation unnecessary; for with all the mulching the ground will settle down and become compact, unless of an extremely sandy or porous nature. In speaking of transplanting, we objected to the application of manure around the roots, because they were not in a state to make use of it; and we advised its being furnished as a top-dressing after the trees had become established and the roots active. This top-dressing should never be applied as long as the trees show sufficient vigor and luxuriance; but when necessary, it should always be applied in the fall, so that during winter and spring it may be dissolved and converted into a state in which it may be taken up by the roots. This applies to all sorts of natural and artificial manures or composts. When applied in spring, they have no time to be dissolved before the heat and drouth of summer comes, and they are dried up, becoming an injury rather than a benefit Liquid manure, however, may be applied during the growing season, and will be particularly beneficial in dry weather. It should be applied weak, however, and in sufficient quantity to reach the roots; a small portion thrown on the surface evaporates immediately, without effecting the least good.

In top-dressing with manures and composts, a sort of forked spade should be used, (fig. 2,) which is far better than a common spade, being much less liable to injure the roots; and it stirs up and loosens the soil without turning it over, just as a subsoil plow loosens and pulverizes the subsoil without throwing it up to the surface.

Fig. 2.