A correspondent in Chillioothe, Ills., writes thus:

" One word as to the prettiest lawn or street tree that grows indigenous in this section. I think the Blue Ash, as it is called here, is, on the whole, ahead of any other tree. Its foliage being of a very dark green with a shade of blue, and having a fine globular head, renders it an object to attract the attention of the moat careless observer. It somewhat resembles the White Ash, but the foliage is more dense, the tree more symmetrical. and the wood far more durable".

Will yon permit a subscriber to the Horticulturist to trouble you with the question - How to rid a garden of a worm which infests it! A portion of my garden was filled in with sandy loam two years ago and since liberally manured. I now find it overrun with worms about three-quarters of an inch long, whitish colored and having numerous feet In stirring up the surface I find abundance of what seem to be nests of them, containing clusters of 100 together. I believe they are eating up all my Crocus and Peony bulbs, and am afraid they will ruin the garden. I find them also on my Asparagus bed. Can you suggest a remedy! I shall be extremely obliged to you to do so. Wm. Brooks. - Little Falls, N. Y.

The most effectual method known to us of ridding a garden of these destructive grubs is to have the ground thrown up into narrow ridges in the autumn, so as to expose it thoroughly to the frosts of winter; also to apply a dressing of warm lime, ashes, etc. These operations must be repeated annually, and in every spadeful that is thrown up they should be searched for and killed.

Inclosed is a piece of a shoot of the American Black Raspberry, which we cultivate. On splitting it open, you will find it filled with the eggs of an insect. It attacks the young shoots of our trees while they are growing, and punctures them in rows, like the shoot before you. Our Peaches, Plums, Cherries, Climbing Roses, Weeping Willows, and Raspberries, are attacked every summer. To the Willow it is always fatal, the tree dying down to the point of attack. Please let us know what it is and how to get rid of it Noble S. HAMMOND, - Essex, Clin. Co., Mich.

Cut off and burn all shoots like this, in which eggs have been deposited.

I am getting together a compost heap formed of swamp muck, barnyard and stable manure, lime, ashes, (unleached,) and charcoal. The ashes are, perhaps, one-fifth lime, as they come from the kiln; the lime is air-slaked only when it goes in the heap. I purpose having by August from six to seven hundred single cart loads in the heap, which is to be used in planting an orchard in the fall and spring (about twenty-seven acres) in Apples and Pears. Now what I wish to know is whether it will be best to dig holes four feet square and use the compost when planting, or apply it to the surface, say in strips ten feet wide, where the trees are to stand, and plow and trench plow in the month of September, so as to be ready for planting in October and November; and whether it is a good plan to use the lime ashes, as stated above, and what proportion! I have been using so far one-tenth. My land is good sandy loam on clay subsoil, yielding good crops of wheat and corn. A Subscriber. - Frederick Co., Md.

The materials of your compost are excellent, but it will be all the better if at least one-half be stable manure. Twenty-six one-horse cart loads to the acre is a small allowance, and must be applied economically. It might be as well to spread it on the strips intended for the rows of trees and plow it in. The trees in this way will get as much as may be necessary for two or three years, and after that they may receive top-dressing if they require it. Manure should never be placed immediately on or about roots of trees at time of planting, but placed so near that their young roots will soon strike into it. We prefer to use lime ashes as a top dressing, to mixing with manure.

I have received from Prance a Rhododendron, Pentium. Is it very hardy in this climate, or must it be covered in winter! Must the Fostolff Raspberry be protected in winter in the same way as the Red Antwerp! A Subscriber, - New York.

We would advise a slight protection for both, though in most seasons they might get along without it. The Rhododendron suffers most from sun in the winter.