You will find some notes from a correspondent, whose statements you can rely upon as correct in this locality.

You Invite your readers to ask questions; therefore allow me to Inquire whether budding trees can be successfully practiced In spring? If so, what is the process - the whole? (1)

What is the best time to cut scions for grafting, and the best way to preserve them till spring? If kept in dirt, should I bury the whole, or what part? How wet must the dirt be? (2)

In setting out a young Pear orchard, would you prefer the pyramidal form or horizontal mode of training to the trellis? By the latter mode would not the large fruit be safer from winds? (8)

I have a number of thrifty Cherry trees, of different kinds, which have made fruitless efforts to bear for several years. Some are in sandy soil, others in heavy but not wet land. The fruit foils prematurely, and but few specimens come to perfection. The Fear does well on the same ground. What does the Cherry want more than, or different from, the Pear? A neighbor succeeds admirably with the Cherry, but can do nothing with the Pear. (4)

I have asked the preceding questions in a plain, former-like way. They undoubtedly seem very simple to you: so the solution of a simple problem in the Sole of Three would be to me; but to require a boy to do it who has not crossed the bridge of Addition, would be imposing a difficult task. I am Just commencing fruit growing a little. The trees I have are self-educated, and have worked their way to treehood with but little aid; therefore I infer that the soil, climate, and exposure, are pretty fair; and reading the Horticulturist has made me willing to lend them a hand. I have set some hundreds of Peach trees upon a hilf of considerable altitude, with a northern and western exposure. The north wind has a clean sweep upon them for sixty miles. I set them there because there are fower frosts, and I think less intensity of cold in winter, than on the plain below. I hare Peach trees standing on an inclined plane the lower ones foiled to bear. Last fall I set a self-registering thermometer among the lower trees, and another among the upper ones; and for several still nights they reported five degrees difference.

I changed them, and they reported the same difference.

Worm air ascends, cold sinks; but there is a point beyond which warm air does not rise, and on becoming cold, Is ready to fall. Now I think the fruit grower who locates upon an altitude where this turning point is found, is a fortunate man; he may have frosts above and below him, and repose in safety between the two. I shall make further experiments through the winter, at different elevations.

By the way, these young trees were all stung by something, last summer, and a deposit made in the heart for from one to two feet from the top down, at different places. I do not know the imp that did it. His work resembles that of the locust, which was not here. I shall cut off the tops of about three hundred, and burn the contemplated progeny - HEROD's plan is the only one by which these insect visitors are held at a respectful distance. W. B. Waldo. - Johnscille, N. Y.

(1) Spring budding is seldom practiced, being much less certain than either grafting or the common summer budding. The scions are cut as for grafting, and buried deeply in dry earth, to retard them until vegetation is so far advanced that the bark of the stock rises freely, when the buds are inserted as in the usual way. The buds must of course be taken off with a portion of the wood attached. A kind of budding which the English call "scallop budding" can be performed at the season of grafting, before growth commences. A bud is taken off the scion in the usual way, and a corresponding piece of bark and wood is taken off the stock. The bud is then fitted on the stock so that the bark at the top and at least one side will be placed in even, close contact, and is tied in the ordinary way. This mode is considerably practiced by the French Rose growers. In both cases the stock must be headed back to within two or three inches of the bud as soon as a partial union has been formed, in order to direct the growth into the newly inserted bad.

(2) We prefer the early part of winter for cutting scions, but it can be done with safety any time before the buds begin to swell. They keep very well in a cold, dry cellar, with the lower ends in earth or entirely buried. Where a cellar is not suitable, or when scions are wanted for late spring grafting, we prefer to bury them in a pit three or four feet deep, among dry, sandy earth. A mound of earth should be thrown up over the pit, to shed the water.

(3) We should prefer pyramids or low, half standards, as the espalier training requires too much labor to be advisable in orchard culture. On low standard trees, planted rather close, the heavy fruits are nearly as safe as they would be on trellises.

(4) We can not account for such a case. It is possibly some defect in the soil; we can not say what The Cherry prefers a dry, light soil; and in our own practice we have not known it to fail in such. The crop will be surer as the trees grow older. The Cherry is by no means difficult to suit in soil, provided always it be dry.

Pears #1

As some of your subscribers have sent in an account of the keeping of their Pears, I would inform you, though I have but few, that I ate my last Beurre Diel the first week in January; and yesterday (February 27) my last Beurre d'Arcmberg. My Easter Beurre will, I think, keep till next May, as I have kept them that long heretofore. Jacob Frantz - Paradise, Pa.