Let us now, for a few moments, take up for examination our favorite among the foreign kinds, the Grizzly Frontignan. Here we have a large amount of the acids that lie at the base of excellence in the grape overcome by a very large amount of sugar. (It should be observed that the amount of acids is large in this only in comparison with the foreign kinds before named; for the amount is not large compared with the Pineau or Reislings from which the Clos Vougeot, Hermitage, and Johannisberg wines are made.) But besides this it is rich in the harmonious mingling of all those innumerable qualities which chemistry has sought in vain to detect or describe either in the grapes or in the wine. These constitute a grape of high, finished excellence, which I perhaps should say satisfies at all points, and offends in nothing. Its flesh is of equal consistence to the centre, and sufficiently tender, all equally flavored; and its skin is just thick enough and of sufficient strength to safely contain the abundant juice, which is little else than sugary wine.

In this are joined in a very high degree, and perhaps equally, excel lence for the table and for wine.

We are not ignorant of the fact that there are some who have never made the comparison in the true sense of the word, either from indifference or want of opportunity; and some, with whom nature or circumstances have been very parsimo. nious in their dealings in not having given them the power of perception to discriminate and enjoy, who have not discovered the great superiority of the Catawba over the Isabella.

To the careless and indifferent I would say, you are neglecting to accept good things that are offered, to the abridgment of your own enjoyment, and if we can induce you to give more attention to this matter, we shall receive your gratitude.

For those who have not the ability to perceive the finer qualities, and can only know things by their asperities and faults, we have a kind, compassionate feeling, but no words of dispute or argument, for we could not be understood by any ability with which we can address them. They can not comprehend what the term grape implies to those of fine and cultivated perceptions.

The Grizzly Frontignan, which we have placed in the class "best," will be regarded as strictly so - that is, without a superior by very many; but those who wish for more active refreshment will seek a grape that will make a rich dry wine rather than the sweet Muscatella, which is the produce of the Frontignans. This may be characterized as sweet and luscious, but not the wine that Paul would have recommended for the stomach's sake. Our own Diana makes a wine of the latter class, pure, rich, eminently refreshing and permanent, as if acting by large nourishment rather than by stimulation, as is the case with those marvellous Rhine wines, not followed by fever, headache, or depression as secondary effects, such as usually follow from sweet, exciting wines, which are drunk to please the palate merely, or the alcoholic, whose object is high excitement. As a grape for the table, pure, rich, and distinctively vinous and refreshing, the Diana, in its best condition, may be considered but little inferior to the Frontignans, only wanting in that uniform tenderness which should be considered indispensable in a perfect grape.

In vinous flavor it is not, perhaps, equalled by any of the Frontignans, and its high character will be fully recognized in this respect when it becomes better known to the discriminating taste. In the matter of delicate aroma, however, the Frontignans may claim a superiority, though this is far from being the first point of excellence, as we have already indicated. The vinous grapes grow most upon the appetite by use, and delight not merely the palate, but the whole man. The Diana, both for the table and for wine, may be said to supply all the defects of the Catawba, to those who have known nothing better, and all pronounce it an exceedingly good grape. Its full measure of goodness must not be expected from very young vines, and this is true of all of the vinous class.

I have adduced numerous examples to show that the elements~to be considered in the solution of this question are not few or unimportant I will cite one more native in which these elements of quality will be found assembled in an unequalled degree of excellence, resulting in nearly equal eminence both for wine and for the table. This is the Delaware, and one important circumstance in regard to it should be noted. It is remarkable for long keeping, and dries readily to raisins, retaining both sugar and vinous life remarkably; but one important portion of its excellence is extremely fugacious, and without care will scarcely be fully retained much more than twenty-four hours. This appears to be the living force by which its components are held in effective junction, and which, when;present, affords a peculiar enjoyment beyond that of any other fruit. It was first noted by Professor Warring, who speaks of it as " thrilling him with delight"

If we require the superlative in quality, we must abate something in size, with, perhaps, a seeming exception of the Muscat of Alexandria; but this, when fully understood, does not amount to an exception, unless as it is grown by the aid of fire heat in a vinery, and even then it lacks the vinous life which is indispensable.

In foreign grapes, thinness of skin is an important consideration, because the skin of those kinds is inseparable from the flesh; but in the Americans it separates readily, and is not eaten except in such kinds as Herbemont, Lincoln, Lenoir, and Elsingburg.

Our examination has been lengthened by a strong desire to know and to exhibit both the amount and kind of excellence that may be found in any grape, foreign or native, that we may be just and reasonable as well as comprehensive in stating the characteristics needed and to be expected in a native grape to constitute it "Best" as a fruit for the table.

According to our showing, it may be said, 1st. The skin must be without offen-siveness in odor or acrid pungency; 2d. That it must be sweet and good to the centre; 3d. The elements which constitute its pure, rich, sugary, vinous flavor, must be so perfect in their balance and mingling that the more intimately the grape is known, the more full will be the enjoyment of flavor and refreshment.

Among the foreigners, this may be found in a good degree in the Black Hamburgh, conjoined with great size, but in a superlative degree only in such small kinds as Reisling, etc., which are much smaller in bunch and berry than our own Delaware.