This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
Will you oblige me by answering the following inquiry, in the Horticulturist, if convenient. My house stands on a mound, eighty rods from the public road. The drive is laid out winding, and is planted to the foot of the mound, some twenty-five rods, with standard Cherry and Pear trees. Of the following trees, which would you plant the balance of the drive with ? 1. Norway Fir. 2. Norway Fir, alternated with Cherry. & Norway Fir, alternated with Mountain Ash. 4. White Pine. 5. Sugar Maple, 6. Silver-leaved Maple. S. E. - Lo Moille.
As your avenue is already planted in part with deciduous trees we would advise you to complete it with them; and we prefer the Sugar and Silver Maple - either one, or both; the latter, if you prefer very rapid growth. If you plant evergreens, choose the Norway, and plant not less than twenty or thirty feet back from the walk. We must suggest, however, that a regular row of trees on each side of a winding drive is not consistent It would be if the drive was straight.
What Is a person to do who lives among the hills, where the ground Is liable to wash, and who wishes to plant an orchard ? If trees are planted among the Blue grass, which kind Providence causes to spring up spontaneously, in order to hold the soil together, they do not thrive well; and if they are worked like corn, as they ought to be, the soil Is carried away by every heavy rain that falls. Can any system of subsoiling or draining, or both, prevent this washing process, so that the trees can receive proper cultivation ? B. - Perry Co, 0.
We fully appreciate your difficulties; and we hope some of the readers of the Horticulturist suggest a better method than we can. We know of no other way than to prepare a nearly level bed, of ample dimensions, for each tree; and keep the remainder of the ground in grass. We have seen this practiced advantageously.
In the People's Journal of New York, of November, 1358,I saw an account of a Houghton's Seedling Gooseberry, surpassing all others In many respects. What is your opinion of it ? Is it like G. NewlaNd's Mammoth Alpine Strawberries? T. THORNILY. - FaUston, Pa.
We think very highly of Houghton's. Seedling Gooseberry. It is much inferior in size, beauty, and flavor, to the large English varieties, such as Crolon Bob, Warrington, Whitesmith, &c; but then it is more at home in our climate. It grows freely, propagates easily, bears most abundantly, and the fruit is comparatively, though not wholly, exempt from mildew. The fruit answers every purpose, when it is used in the green state, about as well as any. It should be at least one among every collection.
Permit mo to ask of you, through your journal, some information on setting Apple orchards - the distance apart most advisable. Our nurserymen differ very much on the subject - varying from two rods to four. Please favor us with a little more light K. - Rock Co., Wis.
For a permanent arrangement, forty feet will not be too much in rich, deep soil, where the Apple tree is likely to attain its greatest dimensions. In light soils, thirty feet will be sufficient An economical arrangement is to place the trees twenty feet apart, and after they have borne a number of years, and begin to encroach upon each other, remove half of them. In this way you obtain the greatest advantage from the ground occupied and the labor expended upon it The preparation of the ground costs as much for fifty trees as for a hundred, and the first cost of the tree is a small conbideration.