-Draw a fine strong stem through, the bottom hole of a pot, fill the pot with good mould, let the latter hang or otherwise. When the grapes are ripe and just before the show, cut off the vine; it will not flag before you gain the prize, and perhaps get home. I wish to ask is this an honest plan of pot culture, or do you think it as bad as borrowing plants and fruits of neighbors, to help to gain a prize? - James Cuthill, Camberwell. [Such practice is roguery].

The fourth part of volume V. of "Walpers' Annales Botanices Systematiae "has appeared. It commences with Chrysobalaneae, and ends among Melastomaceae.

The "Journal of the Proceedings of the Linnaean Society," No. 8, completes the second volume of this really valuable work. The part contains the completion of Dr. Ferdinand Mueller's interesting report on Gregory's N. Australian expedition; and another important paper on the Flora of India, by Drs. Hooker and Thomson. There is also a discussion concerning the well-known allegation that Linnaeus called a plant Bufonia in ridicule of Buffon, the great French zoologist; the result of the inquiry, by Prof. Fe, of Strasburgh, and of Mr. Bennett, is to acquit Linnaeus, and to show that nobody was to blame. Among the crowd of Indian novelties described by the learned botanists just mentioned, are two " genuine species of Lonicera," with large obicular reflexed stipules!

The following new and important facts concerning the vine disease, form the subject of a paper just presented to the French Academy of Sciences, by M. de la Vergne: 1. The oidium does not spread to any alarming extent, except when the temperature is, day and night, above twenty degrees Centigrade (68 Fahrenheit), as is the case in the neighborhood of Bordeaux, from the end of May to that of September. Whenever northern winds prevail in the interval, or frequent rains lower the temperature considerably, the growth of the oidium is stopped, to acquire fresh vigor, as soon as the sun adds warmth to the humidity with which the parasite is saturated. The same vine plant is not always equally subject to the attacks of the oidium, nor at the same time of the year; nor are different species of vines equally invaded in different Boils or situations. Hence, the operation of sulphuring need not extend to every point attacked, or to be repeated during the whole duration of the malady.

Along with a singularly beautiful conservatory, Mr. Ormson exhibited lately, at Chiswick, an apparatus which combined the power of ventilating in cold weather, as well as heating, better than anything we have yet seen. At short intervals, the usual hot-water horizontal pipes, are connected by square chambers, also filled with hot water. These chambers are cased with iron. The cases are connected on one hand with the open air, by means of horizontal iron flues passing through the wall, and fitted on the outside with sliding doors; on the other hand they open directly into the house through a grating formed on the inside of the cases. Although this is only an improvement on a method of heating already well known, yet it is an improvement, inasmuch as by no conceivable negligence can fresh air be either burnt, or cooled down in its passage through the cases into the house. The fault of the contrivance appeared to us to consist in the gratings being far too small. It is said that hot-water pipes thus fitted up coat more than the usual apparatus, which we think likely.

It costs us more to wear both a coat and shirt, than a coat only; but we prefer the extra expense for the sake of the extra comfort.

Camellia Japonicas may be excited when making their growth, but not when the bloom has set Therefore all shifting to larger pots is better done while they are growing, and if it be inconvenient to shift them, liquid manure may be given once in four times watering. But there are many sorts of liquid manure; a good shovelful of well-rotted dung, in ten gallons of water, well-stirred up for a day or two, and then the clear water used, makes an excellent liquid manure, but it should never be given to any plant that is at rest.

We hear of glass promenades and glass walls, springing up in every direction for fruits; why has no one thought of applying them for the growth of a very ornamental class of plants - namely, green-house climbers, which are very rarely done justice to, or get what they deserve - the full range of a glass roof, without which they rarely thrive well; certainly not so as to show their graceful growth, nor yet to bloom with that profuseness and continuousness which they will do, when their roots are allowed to ramble in the free soil of a border, and their tops to take their own pleasure under the glass roof?

A plant to hide hot-water pipes in a warm conservatory, would be Ficus stipulata, made to run over a wooden trellis, or a rough wall Give it a mixture of loam, peat, and lime-rubbish, though it is not at all particular as to soil, and requires but little. Some of the species of Cissus, such as antarctica, or capensis, would cover the space quicker. Bat they are more rambling, and we question if they would stand the heat of the pipes equally well.

The Hydrangea is cultivated and pruned in two different ways, for pot-culture, and the pruning for out-door plants, is a third mode. The grape vine is also pruned three or four ways for different styles of culture: and to prune the vine, or the Hydrangea, or any other plant, in a different way from that which it needs, under a particular system of culture, is sure to end in failure. The safest way to prune the Hydrangea, for out-door culture, is never to cut back one morsel of the young wood till it has done flowering, and then to cut it back entirely to the old wood; never to cut back the old wood until it gets too crowded, and then to cut back to a promising young shoot; to thin out the young shoots when they are three joints long, if they come much crowded, and not to allow suckers to grow from the roots on any account whatever. There is nothing differing in principle between pruning a gooseberry bush and a Hydrangea bush: the old thumb rule, and the best rule for gooseberry pruning, is - " What you cut, cut clean out, and what you leave do not touch with the knife." But the drooping kinds of gooseberries require some of the points of the young shoots to be cut back - so much the worse for them.