This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
The Grape crop on the Hudson, like all other fruit crops, has this year been very abundant. Many of your friends will probably be pleased to have a simple and reliable recipe for making wine. My experience is at their service; and if any of your intelligent readers succeed as well as I have in making a really good wine, I suggest that they send a bottle to the Editor the day before he invites me to dinner. I shall endeavor to make my recipe short and comprehensive.
1st All the manipulations should be conducted with scrupulous cleanliness. All the vessels should be procured beforehand, to contain the fruit, broken grapes, and juice.
2d. Gather the grapes in a clear dry day, and at once have them picked over, removing all green berries, and all that are soiled, wormy, or decayed.
3d. None but fully ripe grapes should be used to make choice A No. 1 wine.
4th. Break the grapes in a tub with a pounder until all are mashed. I use a clean Welsh butter tub about two feet deep, flaring at the top. Cleanse it with wood ashes and water if it has been previously used, to remove all grease; soak it well with hot water and scour it with sand; turn it upside down, and fit a piece of board to the bottom even with the chime, to prevent knocking the bottom out.
5th. When the grapes are all mashed, put about four or six quarts into a strong light bag; thin hempen coffee bagging is best; tie loosely, and press out all the juice by means of & screw or lever press; do not press a second time for the best wine.
6th. The juice obtained will be thick; it must not be strained; the mucilage contained therein is quite necessary to the fermentation, and it will in due time "find its level" at the bottom of the cask. Do not put the skins of the grapes into the fermenting cask.
7th. The fermenting cask must be clean and pure. It should be nearly full, and fitted with a tube bung, a tube made by a tinner, in the shape of this - 7. It will cost six cents. Let the longest arm pass through the bung, and the shorter one enter a cup of water, so that the carbonic acid gas may escape without admitting atmospheric air.
8th. The fermenting cask should be kept in a warm room, and the fermentation should go on until the bubbles cease to rise in the cup of water. Draw off the wine as soon as it is clear, into a clean cask, and place in a dry cellar; a vent hole with a spile in it, will enable the vintner to allow the escape of gas, and should be looked to frequently, being careful to stop the vent immediately.
9th. Draw off the wine, during the month of March, from the lees into a clean cask, and let it stand until the following October, when it may be bottled. Use the best velvet cork, first wetting them with wine, and make them go tight, driving with a wooden mallet while the bottle is standing on a smooth hard surface. If held up in one hand and driven with the other, the bottle is liable to break; so also will it break if the bottle is too full.
10th. Treat your friends, don't forget the editor, and drink a little for the stomach's sake. A reason why you should not drink it all at once is, that it will improve by age.
1 have said nothing about sugar, which with some persons is inadmissible, but if one has neither Delaware, Diana, nor Hyde's Eliza grapes to make wine of, and nobody has these in sufficient quantities yet, he must use the kinds in cultivation, Catawba, Clinton, Isabella, etc.; these require an addition of grape sugar to produce enough alcohol to make them keep. Under no circumstance must apple brandy or other liquor be used for that purpose, as the aroma of the wine is thus destroyed. Then the deficiency must be made up with the very best refined loaf sugar, to be added to the grape juice and fermented with it; this is first converted into grape sugar, and then into alcohol. , The quantity of sugar to be added depends upon the ripeness of the grapes. Good ripe grapes contain ten and some twelve per cent, of sugar. One pound or a pound and a half of sugar to the gallon will add enough to equal fifteen per cent., quite sufficient to produce within a fraction of seven and a half per cent. of alcohol, the amount required to prevent acetous fermentation. Wine with this quantity is far better than if stronger; it will "cheer but not inebriate;" neither the chemist nor the thin-skinned Tartar can detect it.
It is a mistaken notion to suppose that sugar is added to the must to sweeten the vine; if well fermented, it simply adds strength. Sweetened wine becomes sirup, and is no longer wine. The usual practice is to sweeten after fermentation; hence the sugary taste. For uneducated palates, it may be sweetened when ready to drink, as the sailor makes his switchel, half molasses and half rum, and may be thus rendered nearly as palatable. No water must be added to the grape juice except for the purpose of producing a light drink, which will not keep, and must in no case be added to the real wine. Water is an adulteration of, wine, though a learned judge has decided that it is not of milk! Those who think water an improvement to wine, had better try the experiment on a small scale, and see the folly of it for themselves. A bottle of good wine will cost four to six cents more than the poorest. Really good wine can not be made of poor materials, such as unripe fruit and brown sugar, but I will give the recipe to make the best wine possible of unripe grapes:
1st. Let the manipulations be as before described.
2d. Select the ripest grapes you have.
3d. Add three pounds of the best sugar to each gallon of juice, and be sure that it ferment until all sweetness disappears. Add no spirits.'
4th. With a lively imagination, equal to that of the Marchioness in Dickens' Old Curiosity Shop, putting it "very strong," one may suppose he has good wine.
The recipe for poor wine is to use poor materials. Success will follow even with cleanliness.
Good vinegar may be made from sour grapes, and grape skins, by adding two gallons of water and one pint of molasses to each gallon of juice, and keeping it moderately warm.
If not out of place here, allow me to say a word on the grape crop of this region. Those who have read and followed your Hints have ripe fruit to send to market, and are getting eight and nine cents for Isabellas, while the quotations are two to five cents; they also have ripe cane for the next year's crop, while the larger number of grape growers have neither ripe fruit nor ripe wood. While shipping fruit to New York on one of our barges, I was delayed by two men who were bringing packages of grapes ashore. As this had quite the appearance of a water-running-up-hill process, I inquired what was the matter, and was informed that these grapes had made two voyages to New York, and were returned, marked " no sale," an offer of one cent a pound being the maximum. The owner kindly permitted me to look into one basket. It contained small bunches of unripe grapes. I suggested that he had picked them too soon. Oh no, said he. I did not pay much attention to my vines this year. I neglected to prune them until it was too late, and then I got so busy with my spring work that I did not plow among them, and neglected to tie them up. I think the vines bore too heavily. My fruit did not ripen well nor the wood either.
The fact is, the grape business is a failure, I don't believe I shall have ten pounds of grapes next year. Last season I asked this man to take the Horticulturist, but he said, as it was war times, he would try and save the expense. My opinion is, that he has saved it over the left shoulder. Perhaps my receipt for making vinegar will be of service to him, and I give you his address, hoping you will send him a copy.
[We must inform our readers that no good wine can be made after this receipt without a strict observance of the 10th rule, especially the second clause. We shall send the Horticulturist to your misguided friend. Our subscribers do not sell their grapes for a cent a pound, and have them returned even at that. We can not be expected to feel much sympathy for men who risk their crops for the sake of saving a couple of dollars, though we think such things are much to be regretted. - Ed].
 
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