For some few years it has been the fashion for gardeners in lordly places to grow grape-vines in pots, which, after bearing one crop of fruit, have been destroyed. Now these pots are generally of such large dimensions as to be quite out of character for our orchard houses, and totally unfit for the amateur who wishes to be master of "all he surveys." By observing in the land of the vine that grapes, and good grapes, could be grown on very small bushes, and in crevices containing but a scanty portion of earth, I was induced to try their culture in comparatively small pots, without destroying them after giving their first produce, continuing their culture without shifting, but top-dressing them annually, suffering their roots to feed in the border during the summer, and then root-pruning and managing them in the same way as other orchard-house trees. This has succeeded admirably, and my vine bushes have been beautiful objects, bearing from four to six bunches of nicely-ripened grapes.

To form these bushes but little care is requisite; a viue one or two years from the eye, with a single stem, must be selected, and potted into an 11-inch pot, in the same compost as recommended for other fruit trees, adding to each pot a quart of 1-inch bones, well mixed with the mould; then cut the vine down to within eight buds of its base: the three lower buds must go for nought; the five upper buds, if the wood be well ripened, will give each a bunch. The lower shoots should be stopped, their tops pinched off as soon as they are four inches long: the upper five shoots may be suffered to grow till the bunch is perceptible; these may then be stopped one bud above the bunch, and all lateral shoots that afterwards come forth may be stopped at two buds from the base of the shoot they spring from. No other pruning will be required during the first season than this finger-and-thumb pruning. It is quite possible that some of the five buds may fail to give a bunch; no matter, stop them of the same length as the fruit-bearing shoots, so as to make a uniform pretty bush; for the vine in all sites and situations; and in all stages of its growth, is a beautiful object. You will now have an upright stem with five divergent branches or spurs.

Now, on the pruning of these spurs depends success; they will, of course, from being grown under glass, be well ripened, and the buds well developed. Begin at the stem, and count four or five buds upwards; the fourth or fifth will, in all probability, be nice and plump. This must be your fruit-bud. Cut down to it closely; then with a sharp pen-knife cut out two or three buds, leaving the terminal bud and another at the base of the spur close to the stem. This will give you a shoot, which is to be your fruit-bearing shoot for the following year. You will thus have on each spur two buds, one for fruit, and the other for wood.

In autumn, that part of the spur which has borne fruit must be cut down close to the shoot which is to bear fruit the following season, and this shoot must be pruned in the same manner to one fruit-bud and one shoot-bud. This pruning should be done early in October, as the buds are then fully developed, and much is gained by autumnal pruning. A vine treated thus will last for many years, and may be always kept as a dwarf bush: the main stem, in time, will swell, and not require the support of a stick.

. The first season the cultivator must be content with four or five bunches from the vine; but if it has its annual autumnal top-dressing of the compost described in p. 264, and in summer a weekly supply of manure-water, it will soon be able to bear eight or ten bunches, and become like one of those hardy prolific bushes one often sees growing in the crevices of rocks in the wine countries of Europe.

After their fruit is set, vines require syringing like other orchard-honse trees. As soon as the fruit is gathered, prune off the roots which have fed them so bountifully all the summer, top-dress them, withhold water, and put them to rest for the winter. I may add, that vines do not need the extreme ventilation recommended for stone-fruits: a warm part of the orchard house will suit them best; or if a small house with a brick Arnott stove can be entirely appropriated to them, so as to force them, and have two, or even three, crops in the season, their culture will be most interesting.. To do this, if forcing be commenced in January, put in one-third of your plants, early in March another third, and then in May the remainder. I do not hesitate to say that a house appropriated to vines in pots will .give more fruit than the same space of glass with vines trained to rafters in the usual manner.

The varieties best adapted for this bush culture are those that are very prolific, none are more so than the following: - the Early Malingre; the Purple and Black Frontignans, most abundant bearers; the Prolific Sweet Water; the Purple Fontainebleau, also abundantly prolific; the Esperione; the Grove End Sweet Water; the Cambridge Botanic Garden, a variety of the Black Prince, and a great bearer; the Chasselas Musquee; the Muscat St Laurent; the Royal Muscadine; the White Romain; the Black Hamburg; and the Chaptal, which gives large and most beautiful bunches. It must not be forgotten that the berries must all be thinned when they have attained the size of small peas, or they will become crowded and inferior.