A plain case (Fig. 299) can be made of any desired size. If quite small 3/4" stock can be used, but ordinarily 7/8" thickness will be best. The method of construction is practically the same as in the cases already described.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square,

Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

The shelves can all be fastened in, if desired, but a good way 13 is to groove the top and bottom shelves into the sides and make those between movable (see Shelves, in Part V.).

The back can be fitted by simply cutting a rabbet on the back edge of each side for the entire length (see Rabbet), and making the shelves of such a width that they will not project beyond the rabbet. A narrow piece can be screwed from the back lengthways, above the upper shelf, as shown in Fig. 300. The rest of the back can then be screwed in place (see Boring and Screws). The back, being too wide to be made of one board, can very well (for a plain case of this sort) be of matched boards or sheathing.1 Do not force the back too tightly into place, - that is, crossways of the boards. Allow a little play for the expansion and contraction.

Fig. 299

Fig. 300.

1 This method of putting in a back answers very well for the beginner, and is often used in cheap work, but, unless quite small, the really workmanlike way is to make a panelled frame, which is screwed in place as one piece. The degree to which the panelling is carried depends upon the size and shape of the back. When you become able to make your work more neatly and accurately than can be expected of the beginner, you will do well to construct the backs in this way, but it involves much more labour and is hardly worth while for such simple work as you will do at first.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

A "knock-down" method of putting together with tenons and wooden pins (Fig. 301) is not very difficult, but requires care and accuracy. In the case of the bookcase just shown, the upper and lower shelves can be pinned through the sides, which will hold the case firmly, and the other shelves can be movable (see Shelves). A case fastened in this way can be readily taken apart. This method can be applied to other designs for bookcases and cabinets.

Fig. 301.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

The general principle is that of the mortise and tenon (see Mortising). If you cut the mortises for the pins before cutting the tenons on the ends of the shelves you will avoid the liability of splitting the tenons. The pins should taper and the angles of the pins and tenons be very slightly bevelled, that is, the sharp edge taken off.

The ends of these shelves can be slightly "cut under" or bevelled inwards (see Fig. 302, which is exaggerated), on the same principle that the ends of floor boards and the like are sometimes slightly bevelled, to ensure a closely fitting joint.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

A good form for an open bookcase suitable for the beginner to make is shown in Fig. 303. This design is suitable for a low, or dwarf, bookcase of whatever length may be desired. If of quite small size it can be made of §* stock throughout, but in most cases a thin plank (perhaps 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" thick) had best be used for the ends. A curtain can be added if desired.

Fig. 302.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

The curves of the ends can be sawed by hand (see Turning-saw and Keyhole and Compass Saw), or better by band-saw and jig-saw at a mill, and smoothed with spoke-shave and file (see Spokeshave and File). The shelves (at least the upper and lower ones) should be grooved into the sides and glued (see Grooving and Gluing), although, as in the other cases already described, nails can be used, but the result will be inferior (see Nailing and Nail-set).

The plainness of the upright edges of the ends can be relieved by a little beading (Fig. 305), which you can do yourself or have moulded at the mill (see Beading). Little brackets, screwed under the lower shelf at each end, as shown in Fig. 306, add to the stiffness of the case. A back can be fitted into rabbets as described above, but in this case it had best not come above the top shelf, a rabbet being cut on the under edge of the latter as well as in the sides. The bottom shelf can simply be made narrower and without a rabbet.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

Fig. 303.

The bookcase shown in Fig. 304 can be of any desired size and proportions. It can be of 7/8" stock, although the upright ends can well be of thin plank.

Fig. 304.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Sa7c, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

This case can simply be nailed together (see Nailing and Nail-set), but the more workmanlike way is to groove the sides into the top and the bottom shelf into the sides (see Grooving). The second shelf from the top can be grooved into the sides, and the upright partition forming the cupboard can also be grooved in place. This process involves careful laying out and accurate cutting. The other shelves can be removable. The base-board can be bevelled or curved on the top edge (or moulded by machine) and can be mitred at the corners. It can be fastened with fine nails (see Nailing and Nail-set). The front piece can be glued as well as the mitred joints. A moulding can be nailed around the top as shown, being mitred at the corners.1

1 A more workmanlike way is to work all such mouldings on the edge of the

The other details of construction do not differ from those of the cases just given, except in the matter of making and fitting the door, for which see Doors in Part V.

A common way of making the sides of such cases is to make the side itself of board thickness, and to face the front edge with a strip (which can be glued on) from 1 1/4" to 2" wide, according to the size of the case, in the way shown in Fig. 305 (see Gluing). This gives a wider edge to the side and the shelves can fit behind the facing strip.

Fig. 305.

Beading can be worked on this strip, as shown (see Beading).

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.