Materials

Basswood (Chap. III., Par.

31), or any soft wood.

2 pcs. 3/4"xl 3/4"xl2" S 2 S Ends.

2 pcs. %"xl1/2"xl3" S 2 S

Sides. 8 dozen 1" No. 17 brads.

Introductory Statement

One of the oldest and most important of all industries is the art of weaving. Before people understood how to make cloth in this way clothing was made principally from hides of animals, and even after the process of weaving was begun it had to be done entirely by hand on very rude looms.

Cloth is made by various ways of plaiting threads; these threads usually run at right angles to each other and are known as warp and woof threads. The warp threads extend the long way of the cloth and are therefore parallel with the selvage edge; the woof threads extend across the warp threads from one selvage edge to the other.

This hand loom may be used to illustrate the principle of weaving by which all of our clothing is made today. You will find it very interesting to look up some of the following references regarding this very important industry:

References:

What Can Be Done in a Hand Loom, by Mabel Priestman, in American

Homes and Gardens Magazine, June, 1909. Cotton Weaving, by R. Marsden. Geo. Bell & Sons, New York, Pub. Hand Loom Weaving, Mattie Phipps Todd. Rand-McNally, Pub "The Textile Industry" - The Origin of Invention, Mason. Charles Scribner's Sons, Pub. Silk, Its Origin and Culture, The Corticelli Mills, Florence, Mass. The Silk Worm and Its Silk. Belding Brothers & Co., Chicago, 111. Silk and Silk Manufacture. Cheney Brothers, South Manchester, Conn. How the World Is Clothed, Carpenter. American Book Co. The Tree Book, Rogers. Doubleday, Page & Co. 2-Voc.

Handloom

suggestions For Original Design

No.1

No.2

Hand Loom Specifications

Ends

As the material is furnished S 2 S, you will not need to plane the surfaces. Plane one edge of the end pieces (3/4"xl 3/4"x 12") perfectly straight and square (Chapter II., Paragraph 4). With the marking gauge, gauge the width of this piece on both surfaces (Chapter II., Paragraph 6). Carefully plane to the gauge line. Plane one end perfectly square (Chapter II., Paragraph 5). Measure the length and square off the other end. In small pieces of material a wood file is often used instead of the block plane in smoothing the ends.

Side Strips

Plane one edge of the side strips perfectly straight and square (Chapter II., Paragraph 4). With the marking gauge, gauge the width on both surfaces, and plane carefully to the gauge line (Chapter II., Paragraph 6). Square one end (Chapter II., Paragraph 5). From this end measure the length and square the other end. Make the two side pieces exactly the same length and the same width. The side pieces may be nailed on to the ends, as shown in the first suggestion for original design, but it will be very much stronger if you will follow the drawing in gaining, or notching, the end pieces into the side pieces. These gains should be cut so that the side pieces will exactly fill them.

Assembling

This piece of work is to be assembled with glue and brads. Use a very little glue and spread evenly so it will not spread out, and soil the outside surfaces of your work. Test it with a try-square, and be sure that you assemble the work perfectly square. After the work is completely assembled, clean and smooth all the surfaces with the wood file and sandpaper (Chapter II., Paragraph 17). Do not destroy the corners in sandpapering. Fine workmen are always careful to respect the corners of their work, taking great care not to rub them off with the sandpaper.

Finishing

This piece of work should be finished with shellac. You may stain it if you desire, but it is not necessary. Shellac will keep the wood clean and free from dirt (Chapter IV., Paragraph 57).

When the finish is thoroughly dry, with a pencil and finger, gauge a line (Chapter II., Paragraph 8) for the brads on each end piece. Set the compasses with their points as far apart as the distance between the brads, and step off the spaces on each line. The sharp points of the compasses will make convenient holes in which to start the brads. Drive the brads into the end pieces, as indicated in the drawing. These brads are to hold the warp thread for the weaving. The brads must be very carefully driven, exactly the same distance apart, so they will stand in a straight line.

Optional and Home Projects Employing Similar Principles.

Quilting Frames

1. The plan of a rectangular frame made of strips can be used in making simple quilting frames. The frame should not be permanently assembled, but fastened at each corner by a large nail, or wooden pin dropped through holes in the strips. There should be several holes in each strip so the size of the frame may be adjusted.

Curtain Stretchers

2. Curtain stretchers may be made on this same plan of a rectangular frame. Some arrangements should be made for adjusting the size of the frame. This may be done by providing a long slot in one end of the strips, and assembling them with small bolts fitted with butterfly nuts. Each strip should have a straight row of small brads near its edge upon which to fasten the curtains.