Problem II. The Bevelled Box

Fig. 185 is a perspective view of the bevelled box which is made from 3/8 in. white wood. Fig. 186 is three orthographic views.

Draw an elevation of the angle full size, as in Fig. 187, and the slant height will be found to be 2 1/4 in.

Fig. 186.

Make from 3/8 in. white wood two side-pieces 12 1/2 in. rough length X 2 1/4 in. finish width, and two end-pieces 8 in. rough length X 2 1/4 in. finish width.

Take a waste board and lay out on it two standard angles, as in Fig. 188. Make ab = 1 in., and ac = 2 in. Set the bevel to the line bc, and. bevel the under edge of both side-pieces and both end-pieces. Make ae = 1 in., and af= 2 1/4 in., set the bevel to the line ef, and lay out both ends of the four pieces, in a manner similar to Problem I., making the two side-pieces each 12 in. long on the upper or square edge, and the two end-pieces 7 1/4 in. long on the upper or square edge. Saw near to the lines, and plane exactly to them.

Fig. 187.

Fig. 188.

Brad-awl three holes in each end of the side-pieces, in a manner similar to Problem L, and nail the four finished pieces together with 1 1/2 in. No. 16 steel-wire brads. Trim off the slight projections on each of the four upper corners, as was done in Problem I. Use a 22-in. iron jointer to make the lower edge of the frame more true. Make a board as long and as wide as the lower edge of the frame; on the upper side of this board scribe a line 3/16 in., or one-half of the thickness of the stock, from each end and from each edge, as in Fig. 189.

Fig. 189.

Fig. 192.

Bore three holes, the first one being an inch from the end, on each of these lines, using the bevel set to the angle gbc, Fig. 188, and located as in Fig. 189 to give direction to the awl. While doing this, keep the work on a waste board.

Fig. 190.

Make for the partition or handle a 3/8 white wood board 12 in. rough length X 3 3/4 in. finish width. Place it on the box, as in Fig. 190, and placing the try-square as in that figure, make a knife-point on the under edge of the work. Repeat at the other end. The distance between these points is the length of the bottom of the box inside. From these points square across the under edge of the partition. With the bevel set by one end of the box, inside, finish laying out one end of the partition, then set the bevel by the opposite end of the box, and lay out the other end of the partition. Saw near to the lines, and plane exactly to them. The partition will appear as in the outline of Fig. 191.

Fig. 191.

Fig. 193.

Find the middle point of the lower edge, and square up from it a fine pencil-line on one side of the board. Set the gauge 1 in., and gauge from the upper edge of the board on the same side a line about 1 1/8 in. each way from the squared line. From the intersection of these lines, measure 1 1/8 in. each way, and place two points on the gauge-line, as in Fig. 191. With these three points as centres, bore with the 3/4 in. auger-bit three holes as shown by the circles on Fig. 191, till the spur of the bit is felt on the back side of the work, then turn the work over and bore from these points to meet the first boring. Set the gauge to agree with the upper and with the lower edges of the bored holes successively, and gauge lines on both sides. Cut to these lines with the small blade of the knife and round the edge of the cutting, as in the end view, Fig. 192, page 89.

Place the partition in position in the box, and make pencil-points at a and b, Fig. 193, where the upper edge of each end-piece of the box meets the partition. From c measure 1 3/4 in. each way on the upper edge of the partition, and place points at d and e. Draw the lines ad and be, saw near to them, and plane exactly to them. Round the edge adeb, as in the end-view of it, Fig. 192.

Nail the partition in place, using two 1-in. No. 18 steel-wire brads in each end, and three in the bottom.

Sand-paper the box, being careful of the corners. Stain it a neat cherry color, using burnt sienna thinned with turpentine, applied with a bristle brush, and rubbed off with cloth. After drying a few hours, shellac it as the joint was done.

Shellac may be used without staining, or the box may receive two coats of furniture varnish. If varnish is used, rub the first coat, when it has dried hard, with pumice and oil instead of sand-paper.