Material: Oak, mahogany, cherry, ash, or any hard wood that will finish well

In Fig. 47 is shown the working drawing for this piece of work. The methods used are applicable on such work as rosettes and similar pieces.

The previous exercises were turned on the centers, that is, the piece was supported on the lathe by the live center and dead center. In the present exercise the screw-center chuck B, Fig. 7, is used. The method of cutting is termed "scraping."

The scraping cut. This cut is made by laying the chisel flat on the rest instead of tilting it up, as in the paring cut. The chisel should be kept sharp and the scraping or cutting should be done lightly in order to obtain a smooth surface. To fix the rest for this piece and to turn the disk, see the illustrations, Figs. 48 and 49. These illustrations show the piece with the corners cut off, the rest set across the face, and the skew chisel in position for cutting off the corners and squaring up the edge.

The diameter of the disk can be measured off with the compasses. Start the lathe; set the compasses to the radius and place one point on the center of the piece, bringing the other point down on the rest and pushing it against the face of the piece. The line will be marked while the piece is revolving.

The back corner of the piece is liable to split off if the chisel is pushed all the way across, so that about \ of an inch should be left uncut; then set the rest across the edge (see Fig. 49), cut off the material with the gouge, and scrape smooth with the skew chisel.

Exercise IV Teapot Stand 52

Fig. 48.

Exercise IV Teapot Stand 53

Fig. 49.

When the piece is turned to diameter "face it off," that is, smooth the side by using the skew chisel. (The rest should be set across the face.) Move the chisel from the edge in toward the center, and back again toward the edge. A "straight edge" should be used to test the work for "trueness."

To turn the molding on the edge, use the round-nose scraping tool for the concave curve and the square-nose or skew chisel for the convex curve. When all the cutting is done, finish the piece with sandpaper; then apply a coat of wood filler (see note on wood filler in Appendix), let it set a few minutes, and then wipe it off with waste or excelsior; let the filler harden, and the work will be ready for polishing. To polish, use a rag on which are a few drops of linseed oil and shellac, and apply while the work revolves on the lathe. Be careful not to get too much oil or shellac on the work. If too much shellac is used the work will appear smeary, and if too much oil is used it will appear greasy.