This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
To make: Conceal end of thread under a fold by passing needle through fold from left to right, then turn needle and passing to left, take up some threads of the cloth and of the fold; repeat. Hold work over first finger of left hand and keep end of work out of the way with the second finger. Each stitch slants on both right and wrong sides (Fig. 110). To join thread: Take stitch in cloth with old thread and stitch in fold with a new thread, tuck ends of the thread under fold, and sew over them.
Fig. 110. - Hemming stitch.
Fig. 111. - Vertical hemming.
Fig. 112. - French hem.
To fasten: Take a few small running stitches in fold, and out through hole of hemming stitch.
For sewing gathers to band.
To make: Start as in plain hemming; then take a slanting stitch through gathers into band; carry the needle straight down and repeat, so making straight stitches on upper side (Fig. 111).
Fig. 113. - Napery or damask hem; A, wrong side, hem turned and overhanded; B, right side, finished hem.
To join and fasten: Same as plain hem.
Turn a very narrow hem toward right side of garment, then fold hem back to wrong side, and crease. Where the fold of the hem meets the fold of the cloth, sew with overhanding stitch. When sewed, hem remains on wrong side of garment (Fig. 112). Used on neck of corset covers, etc.
Turn narrow hem to wrong side of damask, fold back to right side and crease. Then overhand the two folds, when completed, open hem out and press flat (Fig. 113).
Fig. 114. - Blind hemming.
Used for sewing hems of silk, wool, or cloth when invisible sewing is desired.
To work: Instead of taking stitch through cloth to right side, take up enough of the thread to hold, but not through to other side and then through fold of hem. Take a longer slanting stitch between hemming stitches than in plain hemming (Fig. 114).