This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
Material: 5 yards, 36 inches wide. Width around bottom 4 yards.
Measurements taken the same as for preceding skirt, but no turning line is given for the bottom of skirt, because the pleats are laid on the straight and the strips of cloth all cut the same length taking the longest side measurement.
Determine width around bottom, then join together as many breadths of material as will equal this amount. If plaided or striped, match exactly.
Have center of front the center of a breadth of cloth, so seams will be evenly spaced. Make box pleat on center front by turning a certain depth pleat or fold toward the back on either side of center. The width of pleat is determined by the amount of space left between each pleat, and the depth of each. All spacing must be done on the hip line at least 6 inches below waist, and afterwards fitted evenly into the waist measurement. A deeper pleat is generally made on either side of center back, narrower at waist line than at bottom, which brings the back seam on the bias.
Space pleats evenly with tape measure and mark with pins. Do not join back seams until all pleats have been made and basted, keeping the skirt flat on a table or board.
Stitch after fitting, near edge of each pleat and the same number of inches down from the waist line, which should always be below fullest part of hip. Mount belt as on other skirts, sew on hooks and eyes, and turn up bottom for hem, with skirt marker.
Press each pleat sharply on right and wrong sides, make two loops and hang up garment after attaching name and date finished.