For creams and mustards eggs should never be beaten in tin, but always in stone or earthen ware, as there is some chemical influence about tin which prevents their attaining that creamy lightness so desirable. Beat quickly and sharply right through the eggs, beating whites and yolks separately. When gelatine is used for creams, it is better to soak it for an hour in a little cold water or milk, set in a warm place; (it is convenient to place in a bowl set in the top of the boiling tea-kettle to dissolve;) when dissolved, pour into the hot custard just after removing from the stove. For custards the common rule is four eggs, one cup sugar, and one small half tea-spoon salt to each quart of milk. Bake in a baking-dish until firm in the center, taking care that the heat is moderate or the custard will turn in part to whey. The, delicacy of the custard depends on its being baked slowly. It is much nicer to strain the yolks, after they are beaten, through a small wire strainer kept for this purpose by every good housekeeper. For boiled custards or floats the yolks alone may be used, or for economy's sake the entire eggs. Always place the milk to boil in a custard-kettle (made of iron with another iron kettle inside, the latter lined with tin), or, in a pan or pail set within a kettle of boiling water; when the milk reaches the boiling point, which is shown by a slight foam rising on top, add the sugar, which cools it so that the eggs will not curdle when added. Or, another convenient way is to mix the beaten and strained yolks with the sugar in a bowl, then add gradually several spoons of the boiling milk, until the eggs and sugar are heated through, when they may be slowly stirred into the boiling milk. Let remain a few moments, stirring constantly until it thickens a little, but not long enough to curdle, then either set the pail immediately in cold water or turn out into a cold dish, as it curdles if allowed to remain in a hot basin; add flavoring extracts after removing from the stove. Peach leaves or vanilla beans give a fine flavor, but must be boiled in the milk and then taken out before the other ingredients are added. Boiled custards are very difficult to make, and must have the closest attention until they are finished. The custards may be prepared as above, mixing the milk, eggs and sugar, and then placing in pan to steam instead of boiling.
In making charlotte-msse it is not necessary to add gelatine. The filling may be made of well-whipped cream, flavored and sweetened, using a "whip-churn" or the "Dover Egg-beater" to do the whipping. Fill the mold (which should be first wet with cold water for charlotte-russe and blanc mange, and all creams) and set on ice to harden. If preferred, it may be made up in several small molds, one for each person. In the use of spices it is well to remember that allspice and cloves are used with meats, and nutmegs and cinnamon in combination with sugar. The white part of lemon rind is exceedingly bitter, and the outer peel only should be used for grating. A better way is to rub the rind off with hard lumps of sugar. The sugar thus saturated with the oil of the lemon is called "zest," and is used, pounded fine, for creams, etc.