How to Cut and Make a Narrow Neckband-arranging a " Runner " at the Waist-invisible
Fastening to a Shirt
A shirt with a narrow neckband, detach-able collar, and with a draw-string at the waist (instead of an added basque) may be preferred by the worker who does " home laundry," as the ironing of a shirt made in this way is so much easier.
For the narrow neckband, cut a strip of the material-on the straight selvedgewise-about 4 inches wide, and about 1 1/2 inches longer than the neck measure, to allow for the ends of the band to overlap in front.
Fold the strip in half, lengthwise, wrong side out, then double it (the ends together), and slope the cut edges slightly and gradually off from the middle of the back, towards the ends, as shown in Diagram 1.
Diagram I. Showing how to cut the narrow neckband
Open the band to its full length, stitch up each end of the double band, about a quarter of an inch from the edge, turn it right side out, use a pair of scissors to push out the corners to make them sharp, tack it along the fold at the top and down the two ends, and press it.
Turn in and tack a narrow turning along the bottom, and fix and fell the band round the neck of the shirt as instructed in the last lesson for the " stand " of the collar. Machine-stitch the band, near the edge, along the top and down the two ends. Work a buttonhole at each end of the band for a stud, and a perpendicular buttonhole in the centre of the back for another stud, to attach the collar to the band, as shown in Diagram 2.
Diagram 2. The collar-band with the buttonholes worked for the insertion of studs
For the "runner" at the waist cut a strip of the material, on the straight selvedgewise, about 1 1/2 inches wide, and about 5 or 6 inches long; make a narrow turning all round, and tack it across the middle of the back, at the waist line.
Stitch it near the edge to the shirt. Take a piece of tape (long enough to go round the waist and tie in front), and, with a bodkin, thread it through the " runner." Work a perpendicular buttonhole on the right side of the shirt just beyond each end of the " runner," bring one end of the tape through one of the buttonholes to the right side of the shirt, turn down the other end, and stitch it down firmly to the shirt, between the " runner " and the buttonhole.
Thread a second piece of tape, the same length as the first, through the "runner," but in the opposite direction; pass it through the other buttonhole, turn down the end and stitch it to the shirt, between the " runner " and the buttonhole on the other side.
When the shirt is to be made without an added basque it must, of course, be cut longer all round-about 4 or 5 inches below the waist; it must then be finished round the bottom, either with a narrow hem, or, if the material is too thick for that, it can be turned up singly and "herringboned," or bound with narrow "lute" ribbon.
The collar, cuffs, and box-pleat down the front of a linen or cotton shirt should be interlined with linen (single)-rather a coarse, loose make is the proper kind. This interlining is always used, as it takes the starch and gives the necessary firmness.
A shirt can be made to fasten invisibly by making a hem on the right half of the front, as well as on the left; instructions for making the latter were given on page 1237, Vol. II.
Buttonholes are then worked perpendicularly in the right hem, and hidden by the box-pleat, which is made separately.
Making- a Separate Box-pleat
This pleat is made as follows: Cut a strip of the material on the straight, selvedgewise, about 3 1/2 inches wide; make a turning 1 1/2 inches wide on one side, tack it down, and work a row of machine-stitching about a quarter of an inch from the turned-down edge. Make a turning half an inch wide on the other side, and herringbone down the raw edge over the other turning, being careful not to take the stitches through to the right side. Tack this pleat down the hem over the buttonholes, with the stitched edge slightly projecting beyond the edge of the hem; work a row of machine-stitching down the pleat, through to the shirt, on the inner side, a quarter of an inch from the edge, to correspond with the row on the outer edge.