The Deposed Magyar - New Collars and Sleeves - The Ubiquitous Belt n 1911 the Magyar pattern in blouses and I corsages was all-conquering. In 1912 it is deposed from its high estate, and in its stead a very numerous array of designs appear, dedicated to the service and delight of femininity.
As it is quite the plainest, albeit one of the smartest models - that is, perhaps the most useful one of all - let us first scan the possibilities of the tailor-made shirt.
The ideal design is of a truly practical type, with the front opening that is an essential characteristic of the tailored shirt fastened with three substantial mother-o'-pearl buttons warranted not to come off easily, for they are stitched, in the old-fashioned way, through and through four little holes punched in the pearl.
Twill silk is the chosen fabric for the tailor-made shirt of this spring, and two characteristic details of it are the Byron collar and the breast pocket. The Byron collar is of the overturned persuasion, and in its limp simplicity is reminiscent of the poet's choice in neckwear. It leaves the throat free, and is decorated in front in various manners.
One is accomplished by the addition of a soft Windsor tie made into a loosely drooping bow, and another is brought about by the addition of cords fastened to a couple of cord ornaments fixed on the collar fronts, from which hang ends of cord with tassel terminations. Folded ribbon would make an excellent substitute for the cord.
A shirt as sturdy as this - and, by the way, one of its essential points is its full or easy fitting - is the accompaniment of the corselet skirt in its newest edition. Into the skirt the shirt is tucked, but the hard line of the skirt is avoided by the addition of an upstanding frill of material fuller at the back than in front, and round the waist over the skirt is worn a white or coloured patent leather belt.
There is reason to think that the Magyar blouse will be succeeded in overwhelming popularity by the fichu or kerchief corsage, which is of so obliging a design that it can be used for an evening and a daytime dress indiscriminately.
The evening corsage is a very trivial affair. Please understand the word aright. It is not trivial from the point of view of its importance, but from that of its size and bulk. By using a length of very precious lace, the fichu and the sleeves can be composed in one, providing a little addition of tulle be made for draping the arms beneath the kerchief.
Several stately Court corsages are made with the lace kerchief adornment, and in the afternoon robes the delightfully feminine adjunct is specially noticeable. Other corsages may be styled mainly collar, for the kerchief has a rival in the collar, and particularly in the lace one of the exaggerated sailor shape.
An excessively smart and most becoming evening dress for a great reception has a corsage collar of black Spanish lace starting from the decolletage line and falling straight to the hem of the long train like a loose panel. There are shorter collars, some ending upon the waist-line, others a few inches below, many pointed, some cut square, and not a few with the quaint hood effect that is fashionable, exposing to view the corsage beneath.
Two attractive blouses of varying styles, adapted for wear with the new form of the corselet skirt. The one above exemplifies the popular one-sided effect; that below, the simple but becoming vogue of the kerchief bodice
An old favourite in corsage designs is being welcomed back. It has been suppressed lately, but at one time it was one that possessed close acquaintance-shi p with women. I allude to the pinafore bodice again appearing in our midst. Nothing is more useful than this design, for it enables different chemisette and sleeve sets to be worn with one costume. There will be a lace set, a taffetas set, a frilled set, an absolutely plain set, an embroidered nainsook set - anything, in fact, that the inventive genius of woman can design is available in conjunction with the pinafore corsage. Where the armhole of the bodice comes there is a certain amount of decoration conveyed by means of piping, braiding, or insets of embroidery. The armhole is cut smaller now than it was when the pinafore bodice was in vogue before, and in many cases fichu draperies, epaulets, or shoulder-straps of the material are added.
Early in the season it was declared that the high-neck corsage would be a dominating fashion for daytime wear. Nevertheless, the mode's edicts are being flagrantly disobeyed, and it looks as if the collarless corsage would be almost, if not quite, as popular as it was last year. In many cases a corsage is worn now collarless, and anon with a collar, a plan easily achieved.
To inaugurate the new regime several alterations have been affected in the cut of the decolletage, and new collar patterns have been issued. As well as the Byron
Dress collar already mentioned, a very simple silk or linen affair, there is the absolutely new crocheted wool collar made in various colours with raised flowers at the edge in crude tints - the tints that were favourites in mid-victorian days, such as a bright purple, a vivid pink, a staring green, and a violent amber. This is the design of a great Parisian dressmaker. No lace collar can possibly come amiss. A season of lace this most undoubtedly is, and every kind is used in white, ecru, and black.
Instead of cutting the decolletage of the day corsage round, it is an obsession to cut in a V, and beneath the collar is passed a soft handkerchief knotted in front. The V-shaped corsage is for the evening as well as for the day, a most fashionable asset, and is cut very deep at the back in some cases, though in others there is a sloped back with a V front.
The summer tub frock, and its treatment, is already an appropriate subject for our consideration. The one-piece dress will again be a favourite choice, and the corsage will be a moderately full and very easily fitting affair, with the V-cut neck or the round one, as preferred.
Upon a white corsage rose and blue embroidery in wool will be noticeable, and there is a very pretty and novel way of cutting bands of cretonne and covering it with the finest possible little silk buttons, each one of which on the summit has a gold, silver, or steel bead. The effect is absolutely charming, but more practical for a cloth frock than a washing one.
I have seen several soft lingerie shirts with colour on them very sparingly disposed, but effectively, and the favourite shades for a fine white cambric blouse are Delft blue and currant red. This is indeed a season for colour, colour everywhere.
One-sided effects are noticeable still, for the fashion which was inaugurated last year has gained many devotees, and affords opportunities to the designer of dress to produce striking effects.
Though the furore for the one-sided lawn jabot has departed, it will be seen on the V-cut corsage made of hemstitched silk or batiste. The double and very broad frill is in this connection a valuable asset, especially for the middle-aged woman of a spare figure. It bestows a pretty look upon the V-shaped corsage, and when rendered in white is a valuable asset, for a touch of white on the corsage is becoming to most complexions.
When I say white I include in it the biscuit, ecru, and ivory shades that are so very fashionable this season.
It would be safer not to choose materials and colours haphazard for the blouses of the coming season. Despite the fact that blouses of different colours were said to be going to be worn with skirts of a contrasting shade, little confirmation of that idea has so far been noticed.
The fact of the matter is that the blouse that differs to a great extent in colour and material to the skirt cuts up the figure and is not becoming. This being so, the rather pretty notion of matching the lining of a coat and a blouse falls to the ground. It need not be completely disabled, however.
A blouse by its trimming may repeat the colour of the coat-lining to great advantage. Supposing a sand-brown suit of benga-line be worn and the coat be lined with white, the blouse might be made of sand-coloured net or chiffon, with a tracery of tiny pearls or crystals and milky beads to coincide with the lining of the coat. Imagine, again, an indigo-blue coat lined with cyclamen-pink taffetas. What prettier blouse could there be than one made of indigo chiffon with pipings and crystal buttons of a cyclamen-pink shade?
There is one point upon which I have not already
A graceful evening dress; the collar, elongated beyond the waist, is joined on the shoulder to the folds of the fichu. These latter fall over the skirt in front tunic-wise, and make the train at the back, where they are once more joined touched respecting the blouses of this spring, and that is that by their sleeves they are differentiated completely from those of past seasons. The sleeves are, for the most part, much wider than before, and the armhole line is definite. There are three-quarter and long sleeves, and for the evening corsage puffed and wired sleeves - that is to say, the chemise pattern is given a little hidden wire at the hem to keep it away from the arms. The trim-ming of the sleeves differs according to that which is displayed upon the dress.
A charming blouse-corsage, with a novel and becoming edition of sleeves and under-sleeves. The front opening shows a dainty little vest, a most original note
All the daintiest taffetas models have little ruches and bouillonnes; with the tailor-made suit the blouse corsage has sleeves edged with pipings, folds, and silk soutache. There are deep cuffs and cuff straps, a freak idea suggested by the ubiquitous wristlet watch and the rage for bracelets.
Never have I seen more beautiful editions of the sleevelet or under-sleeve than those produced this spring, with their fine hand-wrought embroideries and their narrow ruffles of lace. The transparent sleeve calls also for special remark. It is a charming fashion, and one that we shall welcome when the summer comes. Gauged chiffon and tulle are available for the purpose, and lace is ever acceptable; indeed, as I have said before, there cannot be too much of it seen. Belts of all kinds abound and are rather elaborate, with their insets of coloured leather on black and of suede on patent leather and kid. Sashes are as numerous as ever, and the velvet model with the upturned bow, which extends almost to the armhole, is a novelty that is highly approved.