This section is from the book "The Complete Cook", by J. M. Sanderson. Also available from Amazon: The Complete Cook.
These are a very numerous class of condiments, particularly in French cookery. Foreigners say that the English have only one sauce (melted butter) for vegetables, fish, flesh, and all other eatables requiring sauce - and they add, with some truth, that they seldom make it good. It certainly is a very general sauce, both in England and the United States; and, therefore, we shall begin our recipes with
108. Melted Butter cannot be made good with mere flour and water. Dr. Kitchiner says, that he has tried every way of making this sauce, and gives it as his opinion that the following, if carefully observed, will be always found to give satisfaction: Cut two ounces of butter into little bits, put it into a clean stew-pan, with a large tea-spoonful of flour, arrow-root, or potatoe starch, and add two table-spoonsful of milk; when thoroughly mixed, add six table-spoonsful of water, hold it over the fire, and shake it round the same way every minute, till it begins to simmer; then let it boil up. This is a good recipe for melted butter where it is not intended to be used with acids or wine, which will have the effect of curdling the milk. Pure water is best when the melted butter is intended for fish and puddings, to which any mixture of wine is intended. Clear stock or gravy, instead of water, is preferable when it is intended to be eaten with roast meat, or for vegetables to be eaten with roast meat. The old-fashioned method of mixing is as good as the Doctor's. It is as follows: Break up the butter on a trencher, and work the flour into it thoroughly, then add it to the cold liquid in the saucepan; or you may drop the flour, a quarter of an hour before it is set on the fire, on the top of the liquid, without stirring at all; when the flour has all sunk to the bottom, shake it round till the flour is well incorporated with the liquid; then add the butter, and melt over a clear brisk fire. Fresh, rich cream is sometimes used instead of milk, water, or gravy. You should take care that your saucepan for melted butter be always well tinned, and kept delicately clean. Some recommend a silver saucepan; but this seems to us to be a stupid piece of extravagance. Dr. Kitchiner, however, who talks a great deal about economy, gravely tells us that a pint silver saucepan will not cost more than four or five pounds ! Melted butter is frequently spoilt in the making; for ordinary purposes it should be of the thickness of good cream, but when intended to be mixed with flavouring, it should be of the thickness of light batter. If by any chance it become oiled, put a spoonful of cold water to it, and stir it with a spoon, or pour it back and forwards till it is right again. By mixing such vegetables as parsley, chervil, and others, generally eaten with melted butter, and sending them to the table on a little plate, those who like their flavour may mix for themselves. In the same way, all descriptions of flavouring essences, such as catsup, anchovy, etc , etc, may be mixed at table. This plan will be found to be a great saving in butter.
 
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