"Cultor" says, please give me the names of the enclosed thorns, marked A, B, and of the vine, marked C. In setting out native thorns is it better to sow the seed and set out the young plants thus derived at two years old, or should I go at once this autumn to the road-sides and woods where they abound, select and take up for that purpose, plants already pretty well grown, say five or six feet high ? Would plants of that size bear cutting down close to the ground, or die under the operation?

Are young locust trees liable to be depredated on by cattle?

A. - Crategus crus-galli.

B. - C. coccinea.

C. - Ampelopsis hederacea.

It is better, in planting a hedge of thorns, to employ 2 year old plants, because when cut down, they shoot forth all with a nearly uniform degree of vigour. Large plants dug from the hedge-rows may do well with great care, but some will probably shoot stronger than others, and a few die entirely, and when a hedge once begins to require patching, it can rarely be made to look well. Thorns seldom come up from seed the first year ; and to have to wait 3 or 4 years for your plants is not very agreeable. Nurserymen ought to be able to supply them at from 5 to 10 dollars per thousand ; though through their having been but little demand for them during the few past yean, we can scarcely tell in whose establishment they mey be found - Crategns Coocinea does not make a good fenoe.

Horned cattle will eat locust trees, though not from preference when they can get an abundance of other food. They would be more troublesome to them in hot weather, by endeavouring to rid themselves of flies, by rubbing against their branches, if there are no woods already in your vicinity to afford them that protection, by which many trees would be trodden down and destroyed. Would it not be better to endeavour to raise a hedge of Osage Orange or Honey Locust, around the lot, before planting. If a ditch or trench could be thrown out first it might protect the hedge a little.

Mumford asks, what descriptions of fruit are best adapted to be grown in Iowa, whither he designs to remove and enter upon the nursery business.

The apple succeeds admirably in Iowa, and is the staple crop. Peaches, Plums, Mo-rello, and Duke cherries, the native grape, and in many districts pears, such as the Bart-lets, Vergalieu, Stevens' Genesee, Bloodgood, Tyson, etc., etc. In short, he will find a demand for most good fruits that succeed in his present home.

Answers To Correspondents #1

(W.) If you must have a rapid growing tree in the place indicated, plant a Populus angtdato. We prefer it to all the poplars and it is as rapid as any.

(The Provoking Thing.) - Sir - I have" a neighbor who is very fond of gardening ; he comes to see me every fine day when I am most busy, and with a bland smile asks to walk with me in the garden, Now comes my trouble ; as I try to exhibit what is done and doing, everything reminds him of his own garden and his own labors! We stand before my greatest beauty, which he scarcely sees, but the name suggests what he is doing and he has all the talk to himself! What shall I do ?

Answers To Correspondents #2

B. W., (Cayuga,) - The fruit buds of the peach are usually destroyed when the thermo-meter sinks to 12° or 13° below zero of Fahr. You may ascertain now if the mischief is done, by slicing a bud across with a sharp knife; if the center or heart of the bud, is brown or black, instead of green, (its natural color,) there will be no fruit from that bud. It will blossom, but the fruit will not set. It does not always follow, however, that even this temperature will destroy the embryo fruit - because if the bud thaws gradually, in cloudy weather, it will escape - the sun striking in the branches after so cold a night, does the harm,«nd hence trees quite in the shade, often escape entirely, though equally exposed to the frost.