This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
From the nature of our climate we can not, as a rule, have as perfect lawns, green, velvety, and fresh, as they do in England; but with due care in preparing the soil, and by using seed in abundance, we can create the foundation of a lawn equal to theirs, and that by proper care and attention to mowing, rolling, etc., will present an equally good appearance eight months out of the nine that we expect to enjoy it.
No complete lawn, no durable lawn, no lawn that will bear extremes of heat in summer and preserve the roots of grass from cold in winter, can be created without form-ing for it a soil of the best quality, light, loose, and friable, at least sixteen inches deep. And further, no good lawn, no perfect mat of grass can be obtained in one, two, or three years without an abundance of seed. All spaces not occupied by seeds of grass sown must and will be filled with a growth of weeds that, as they grow, absorb the elements of plant-life in the soil, and choke the young and more tender growth of grass. For an acre use two bushels of Blue Grass, two bushels of Red Top, and twenty pounds of white clover, and sow as early as possible in spring.
During this month, August, the grass on lawns should not be cut very close, as if so done, it is liable to burn and dry out the roots, and the spaces to fill with false and wild grasses. Those who are about to make new lawns for another year should now commence the labor of trenching or plowing and subsoil plowing very deep. The lawn should be made and allowed to settle a week or two, or during two or three good rains before sowing the seed and leveling up, and the seed should be sown as early as the season of cool nights and frequent rains comes on. Some writers advise the use of grains, as rye, oats, etc., to be sown with the grass-seed; but as, according to the general law, the stronger overpowers and gradually destroys the weaker, we have found the use of any coarse grain injurious rather than beneficial. In the making of lawns we have at times had the handling of very light sandy soil, and when compelled to do the best we could with it, without aid from top-dressing, etc., we have used oats in the fall, for the purpose of holding it from blowing, and have made our second sowing of seed after the oats had grown an inch or so.
We use Red Top, Kentucky Blue Grass and white clover at the rate of from four to six bushels to the acre.
Cuttings of heliotrope, geraniums, etc., should be struck during this month. As they grow, pinch back frequently in order to make the plants bushy and strong. In potting, do not use too large pots; small pots and repotting is far better than the use of too large a size at first.
There is always beauty and repose in a well-kept closely-shaven lawn; but a lawn with scattering tufts of weeds or foul grasses, and the grass from six to eight inches high, presents no idea of refinement, but, to use a common vulgar phrase, looks as if the owner "wanted to be somebody, but could not afford it." It is better, therefore, for your own eye, as well as for your credit in the judgment of the world, to have a small lawn, and have it kept in perfect order, than to have an acre or more loosely managed. If there are beds of flowers in a well-kept lawn, they can be visited at any time, without fear of disturbing the polish on boots or wetting the kid of the most delicate slipper; but if it be badly cared for, woe to the boot or shoe less than a "stogy" that ventures upon it any hour before ten a.m. or after four p.m.
A well-kept lawn is an expensive feature - expensive in its first cost, if well prepared, and in its after-keeping. If, therefore, you are about to plan your grounds, do so with a knowledge of your means for keeping them, and take no more into the lawn than you well know you can keep as it should be.
Look over the lawn carefully, and remove every weed, root, or false grass that may be found; then either replace with a piece of turf, or rake up and sow thickly with lawn grass seed, rolling and pressing firmly.
WHERE the oocupants of country cottages have not the time or the taste to select and plant out a list of good ornamental shrubs and trees, we think certainly the simplest and easiest method of home ornament is in a good, handsome, well-kept lawn. They are the promoters of taste. We believe that if a single individual can once be induced to go as far as the preparation of a really handsome stretch of lawn, he can be induced to attempt further improvements. Mr. Barry, in his recent address on Lawn Making, before the Geneva Horticultural Society, makes this worthy remark:
" I observe where people succeed in making a piece of lawn around their dwelling, their gardening taste improves rapidly; disagreeable objects become more so, in contrast with the smooth grass, and must be removed; some choice trees and shrubs are added, perhaps a vase or a basket, or bed of flowers - one object of taste suggests another and another, and thus we make real progress. I see much of this change going on in our own city of Rochester. All around our streets I see charming bits of grass, with brilliant beds and vases of flowers, where a few years ago there was a tangled and unsightly mixture of fruit and shade trass, flowers, long grass and weeds. This change has added immensely to the beauty of our city, and has doubtless added largely to the comfort and enjoyment of the owners, as well as to the money value of their property".
In one of the back numbers of The Horticulturist, Mr. Saunders, of Washington, gives a very practical recipe for the mixture of grass seed for lawns, and we herewith repeat it.
One bushel Red Top (Agrostis vulgaris).
Two bushels June grass (Poa pratense).
One quart Timothy (Phleum pratense).
Two pounds White clover (Trifolium repens). These quantities to be mixed and applied to each acre of land.
The usual time of sowing is in March and April, as all well know. We have seen, however, many soils either so poor in vegetable matter, or unsuitable to form a sod, that " no amount of grass seed could raise a handsome lawn. In this case it will be far more simple to dig up grass sods from some old pasture field, or the roadside, to cover the land completely over. If this is done late in the fall, by the next spring the grass will start up fresh and luxuriant, and delight every eye. This is certainly the simplest and least vexatious of all ways of making a small lawn, and it also has the merit of supplying an immediate want. A grass sown lawn can hardly be made perfect under two or three years, but a sod lawn is complete the very first season. Liquid manure will be best for use on lawns, pretty thinly diluted. Sulphate of Ammonia, dissolved at the rate of one pound to a barrel of water, is a capital fertiliser. The grass will grow of a rich, dark green, and very luxuriant.
 
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