Prof. Coppock has experimented more extensively and perseveringly in this direction than any one that I know, and I have had frequent opportunities of observing his successes. As I have before said, I don't believe in planting large trees, but I do believe in mulching to the fullest extent; and when a big tree is to be moved, there is no one thing of so much importance to its future welfare as a substantial much, I may remark, en passant, that the Bartlett tree spoken of by Prof. C. has this season produced something like a bushel of fruit, a proof not only of the success of the operation, but of the value of the variety, and its early productiveness as a standard.

Mulching #1

This - July - is the month to apply mulch, and we have repeatedly written that new-mown grass is one of the best materials for the purpose. It keeps in place well, has no weed seeds, and is not unsightly. Stir up the ground well with the spading fork or hook hoe first, then apply the mulch around the tree fully four feet in diameter for newly planted small trees, and about four inches thick. Be prepared to remove the mulch again as soon as the fall rains and cool nights commence, to be again replaced as soon as the ground is firmly frozen for winter.

Mulching #2

At the approach of cold weather, or beginning of winter, give them a good coat of stable manure, spread evenly all over the plants. If the rows are two and a-half feet apart, a horse and each cart-wheel will follow along an alley without injuring the plants. The covering with manure is of great importance, as it protects the buds and embryo fruit from severe freezing, and prevents the roots from lifting and heaving out as the frost leaves the ground.

The rains soaking the strength of the manure into the soil, gives food and nourishment to the roots. The straw and coarser materials being bleached and beaten close to the ground by the winter snow and rain, does not prevent the young growth from coming through in the spring, but serves to keep the fruit clean in the summer.

Mulching #3

An Indiana cultivator says: "After an observation of ten years past, I am confirmed in the belief that it is poor economy to try to raise strawberries without mulching. A good mulch is a policy of insurance against dry weather, while in all seasons, wet or dry, it keeps the fruit clean, as well as prevents the growth of weeds. On the Weinbergher farm, near Indianapolis, I noticed the strawberries producing a good paying crop, notwithstanding it was claimed that the frost had materially lessened the result. The entire crop was heavily mulched, with perhaps the exception of a small patch, here and there, that was allowed to run in matted rows. The latter yielded comparatively no fruit, while the former in single hills and well mulched, would pay (I should judge) good dividends. In very favorable situations and seasons, I have raised good crops without mulch; but such culture is unreliable, and in the long run unprofitable".

Turn to the article we give in some of our previous pages, where we give the success of a grape-grower who persisted in mulching his vineyard with straw. Has any one failed who applied mulching ? Let us hear from him.

Mulching #4

We would remind all gardeners and fruit growers that this month is the time for covering with mulch. One inch deep will be sufficient for strawberries. We use from two to four tons to the acre.

Mulching #5

P. T. Quinn prefers turnip tops to any other material for mulching strawberries. Many years since I abandoned the use of tan-bark for mulching strawberries, because in the first place it was too expensive, and secondly, I was annoyed by the aftergrowth of sorrel, which gave us considerable trouble to eradicate. Again, while cut straw will answer a good purpose as a summer mulch, for winter protection of strawberry plants it certainly does not come up to the standard. When the ground is not covered with snow, with an occasional strong wind, cut straw is blown about every which way, leaving the plants uncovered. In my experience long straw or fine soft hay are infinitely superior for winter mulching to either tan-bark or cut straw. Turnip tops are sure to remain in place through all kinds of weather, until removed by hand towards spring, and to those who have such material the experiment is worth a trial.

Mulching #6

For a general mulch there is nothing equal to the soil itself. A thorough pulverization of the surface is the same as a coat of saw-dust, cut straw, or any similar fine application. There is some fertility, it is true, in these latter; but then there is some enrichment secured also by working the soil, the labor in the two being about equal, though the latter can be increased; but then its benefit from increased fertility will balance and more than balance this.

Our corn fields, therefore, are mulched to advantage by the use of the cultivator. Whether it would pay when this ceases, to apply a special mulch is a question. It will with potatoes. The mulch, if a thick one, will keep moist, will prevent weeds and the crusting of the surface, thus giving access to air, which it is now understood is a benefit. Besides, it will keep the ground cool - what the potato wants.

The best mulch for this, as well as for shrubs and young trees of all kinds, is one of green grass or weeds, applied immediately after the last stirring of the soil, and sprinkled well with leached ashes. The ashes will draw moisture from the air and protect the green coat which in turn will protect the soil below. This, also, will add fertility. We have used it for several years with the most gratifying results. The severest drouth has but little effect; there is a fine growth, seeming in defiance of the weather. We also apply it to grapes, and with benefit.

This for summer mulching. For winter there needs equal protection. Grass must have itself or the snow to protect it. A good aftermath or well drained soil is sure to do this. It will lessen the leaving; and there will be considerable fertility, furnished by the plant itself, which is not lost, but goes at once to form pabulum for the roots, the plant thus reproducing itself, being an addition to the usual growth where the ground is fed close.

Straw is a good mulch for winter wheat. In some parts it is a rule to apply it. You protect the strawberry by evergreen boughs, the best protection, among the many, that can be applied. It prevents smothering, and it keeps off the cold. The roots of grape-vines, shrubs and small trees should be covered with leaves held down by a little soil. It will lessen the frost both in intensity and in depth. The winter of 1871 - 72 was a test. Besides, the leaves will add manure in the spring, and of the right kind. - Cor. Utica Herald.