Five Most Profitable Winter Pears

Vicar of Winkfield, Lawrence, Easter Beurre, Glout Mor-ceau, and Prince's St. Germain.

For Cooking

Pound or Cattillac The first is the best keeper. Chaptal and Fatter Bergamot are both very profitable cooking Pears.

Your correspondent Horicola touched on an interesting and important subject, in (he December number, when be spoke of hardy European shrubs. Cannot some one give us the light we so much desire on this polnt? The common Privet tries hard to be an evergreen here, but has to give it up about mid-winter. The Mahonta, Box, Savin, and a few other low plants, help the matter a little, but our poverty in this line is very apparent. Have not the Chinese a method of dwarfing trees, as well as the feet of their fair ones? If there is such a method, (consisting chiefly, I believe, in a series of root-prunning,) can we not apply it to evergreen trees, and thus provide ourselves with a class of dwarfs as substitutes for shrubs? (1.) The Hemlock, English Tew, Red Cedar, Sweedish Juniper, and some of the Arbor Vitaes are beautiful when young; and if art can make them permanently small, would they not in some measure compensate for the absence of the Hollies, Laurels, and Rhododendrons, the charm of the English country landscape?

I have a cast-iron article standing on my lawn, which was bought for a vase. It is painted white, in imitation of marble. On visiting a cemetery in a neighboring city, shortly after this purchase, I observed several of the articles, precisely like mine, standing at the head of graves, and I was told that they were called urns. Will you tell me the difference between a vase and an urn? (9.) Is a vase an urn when it stands in a burial-ground, and an urn a vase when It decorates a lawn? And ought one of these articles, when used as a garden ornament, to stand empty, or to be filled with earth and planted with email trailing vines or flowers? Urne were used anciently, all know, as deposits for the ashes of the dead; and therefore, when employed in cemeteries at the present day, should not contain flowers. Bat as we wish to suggest very diffferent ideas by our garden decorations, should we not enliven our rases or urns, (whichever they be,) with flowers ?

I have a Norway Spruce which was decapitated a year ago, but which I now wish to grow erect Cen its leading shoot be restored? And if so, how can it be done ? (3.) A. D. G.

(1.) The Hemlocks, Red Cedar, Arbor Vitaes, all the Junipers, and even the Norway Spruce, may be kept quite low by shearing or pruning the tope only; but none of these compensate for the want of broad-leaved evergreens, such as Hollies, Rhododendrons, Kalmins, etc. An article from Mr. Munn, on this subject, will be given in our next number.

(2.) An urn is quite a different thing from a vase. The former has a covered top, and was formerly used as a receptacle for the ashes of the dead after the bodies were burnt It is not in actual use at the present day, except as a mere ornament in cemeteries. Large, classic vases, such as the Warwick, Borghese, and Florence, are in themselves beautiful works of art, and as such are placed in gardens or on lawns without plants; but all small vases, cast-iron, rustic, etc, should be filled with plants; they are evidently intended for that purpose. A small, empty cast-iron vase on a lawn is a paltry piece of affectation.

(3.) Take the most vigorous shoot in the best position for a leader, and fasten to a stake, attached below to the stem of the tree.

Will you hare the goodness to enlighten me a little on the management of the Manetti Rose. Some three years ago I purchased a lew dozen plants, with a view to increase them by cuttings, which I understood would grow almost as readily as a Willow. The next autumn I headed all the plants down, making as many cuttings as possible, allowing three or four buds to each. These were planted carefully, and to secure them against the effects of the winter, about two inches of chopped thatch was spread over the surface. The cuttings appeared bright in the spring, but not one of them rooted! Since this experiment I hare grown them by layers, but when It is desirable to propagate them rapidly, cuttings are preferable. Having a few strong plants, I should like to ascertain if I can use their tops successfully in the open ground, for cuttings. Please inform me at what time they should be planted, and in what sort of soil, etc Another difficulty I have experienced is, that, although I have had some little experience in budding, and find no difficulty when I use Sweet Briar, or Boursault stocks, I do not succeed at all when the Manetti is used.

Can you also tell me how I can succeed in getting seed of Linden, Cornus mascula, and Halesia tetraptera, to grow? I have sowed them in the autumn, but could never succeed in getting one of either of them to grow. The Cornus mascula I have managed according to the direction given for managing Haws, and at other times planted them in autumn. The Halesia I have sowed entire as it was taken from the tree, and sometimes cut in so as to expose the kernel; but they wouldn't grow. A Reader.

The Manetti Rose grows from cuttings as freely as Willows, We cannot understand the cause of your failure, because we succeed in the same way. We plant in spring generally, just as we would Currant cuttings, and bud the same season. The buds take rather better late in the season, say 1st September when the strongest growth is over.

About seeds - the Linden rarely grows well; the others should succeed by keeping them in a rot-heap one season. We treat them in this way successfully.

Allow me to prepare a little matter for your consideration, or that of those of your subscribers learned in pomo-logical nomenclature. Unde derivatue Passu Colmar? That the above is almost universal orthography I have no doubt, but it has always sounded to me unmitigated nonsense. I have a copy of The Gardener's Remembrances, published at Glasgow in 1819, by Jams* Magphail, in which he lists a Pear as Colmar. About 1834 I added three or four varieties to this list upon the recommendation of Mr. John Page, Gardener to Sir John Delves Broughton, Bart., of Doddington Park, Cheshire, Engiand, among which is Peroy Colmar. This list I afterwards (in 1841) referred to in conversation with a Mr. Joubkrt, a somewhat locally noted orchardlst and vine-grower at Verton, in Brittany, and I perfectly remember his recognising the cognomen as there written. The book alluded to has been out of my possession for many years, until within a few weeks past, when I received it with other portions of a fam-Oy library from France, and the entries above alluded to happening to catch my eye, I deemed the matter, though trivial, at any rate worth a moment's consideration. If any inquiry on the subject is merited, there is no fitter arena for the disquisition than the increasingly valuable pages of the horticulturies.