The Top

Plane one surface for the working face (Chapter II., Paragraph 2). Plane one edge perfectly square with the working face and mark it the working edge (Chapter II., Paragraph 4). Plane one end exactly square with both the working face and the working edge for the working end (Chapter II., Paragraph 5); measure and cut the length. Gauge the width (Chapter II., Paragraph 6) on both surfaces and plane to the gauge line.

The Brackets

In the working drawing a very simple design is given for the brackets. Suggestions for Original Designs will give you a number of ideas from which you will be able to work out a design of your own. Make a drawing of your design. After you have worked out a design that is acceptable, use the 7/8"x5"xl0" piece to make the brackets. Plane one surface perfectly smooth and mark it the working face (Chapter II., Paragraph 2). Prepare a working edge (Chapter II., Paragraph 4). Plane one end exactly square with the working face for the working end (Chapter II., Paragraph 5). Note: - This board will be sufficiently long to make both brackets by reversing the pattern and using the material with economy. Lay out one bracket; carefully saw out this bracket with the turning, coping or compass saw. With a wood file and sandpaper make the edges perfectly smooth. Use this bracket for a pattern in laying out the second one. Make the second bracket exactly like the first.

Assembling

This work is to be assembled with brads. Be sure to set the brackets perfectly square and an equal distance from the ends. In driving the brads be very careful not to briuse the work with the hammer (Chapter II., Paragraph 21). With a nail set drive the heads a little below the surface so the holes can be puttied.

Finishing

When the work is all assembled give it a final cleaning and smoothing with a sharp steel scraper (Chapter II., Paragraph 16) and finish with sandpaper (Chapter II., Paragraph 17). Be sure that all of the corners are left sharp and well defined. Bore the holes through which the hanging screws are to be placed. These holes should be 16" from center to center in order that the screws will strike the studding in an ordinary plastered wall.

If you do not expect your shelf to support a very heavy load, perhaps one screw at each end will be sufficient. Use your own judgment in this matter.

Finishing

Give the bracket shelf a coat of stain of desirable color (Chapter IV., Paragraph 54). Finish with shellac (Chapter IV., Paragraph 57) or with wax (Chapter IV., Paragraph 56).

Optional and Home Projects Employing Similar Principles.

Shelf With Towel Rod

1. By shaping the brackets so they will be a little wider at the lower end, and boring a hole about half or two-thirds through the thickness of each bracket, a rod for hanging a towel may be added. This rod may be made stationary, or one of the holes may be slotted so it can be lifted out, if desired.

Shelf With Drawer

2. By designing the brackets properly a neat, shallow drawer may be constructed to fit between them; such a drawer should be carefully made, and so designed as to be in harmony with the general idea of the bracket shelf. The towel rod might also be added; for a lavatory not provided with a shaving cabinet, such a shelf would be very convenient.