Forming The Rabbets

In picture frame material it is necessary to form a rabbet to receive the glass and the picture. If you have a regular rabbet plane, use it for this work; if not, you may use the grooving side of your matching plane; that is the side of the plane which has the single blade. Try this on a scrap of material until you see just how it can be done; a little experimenting will enable you to do it satisfactorily.

Cutting The Length Of Sides And Ends

If you have some special picture which you desire to frame, you should measure it and cut the lengths of your pieces to suit it. If not, you may follow the sizes given in the drawing.

The frame is to be joined at the corners with mitered joints; these are to be cut in the miter box which you have made. If you did not make the miter box ana there is one provided in the shop, you may use it or lay out the half pitch cut (Chapter II., Paragraph 25) and then saw this angle by hand. This will be a little difficult, but if you are careful you can do it perfectly. After laying out the half-pitch cut once it is well to set the T-bevel to this angle and lay out the other pieces from the T-bevel. Remember, that in a rectangular frame opposite sides must be exactly the same length. The least variation will throw the frame out of square and ruin the joints.

Assembling

The joints are to be assembled with brads driven through the outside corners. This must be done with extreme care; you must not attempt to use large brads (Chapter II., Paragraph 21). Note: Before attempting to nail together the joints of the picture frame, lay it flat on your bench top or some other level surface to make sure that the joints will fit. This will determine whether opposite sides are exactly the same length and whether the joints are cut at a perfect half-pitch.

Sometimes in assembling a mitered frame mechanics nail together three joints, and if the last joint does not quite fit, they bring it as close together as possible, clamp it on the bench top with a scrap board under it and saw through the joint. The clamp holds the material from slipping, and the sawing through the joint makes it fit; it can then be brought together perfectly.

Note: In the miter box lesson a very excellent clamp for assembling frames is shown. This clamp makes it possible for a saw cut to be made in any joint that may require it.

Finishing

After the frame is assembled, with a very sharp steel scraper (Chapter II., Paragraph 16), carefully smooth the outside surface; smooth all of the joints perfectly. If desirable, the outside corners of the frame may be slightly rounded or chamfered to suit your taste. With a piece of fine sandpaper (Chapter II., Paragraph 17), carefully smooth all of the surfaces. Stain the frame a desirable color to correspond with the picture with which it is to be used (Chapter IV., Paragraph 54). The picture frame should be given a coat of filler (Chapter II., Paragraph 55); one or two coats of shellac may be substituted, if you do not have the filler. Finish with shellac (Chapter IV., Paragraph 57) or with wax (Chapter IV., Paragraph 56).

Optional and Home Projects Employing Similar Principles.

Fly Screen

1. The principle of a rectangular frame, assembled with plain mitered joints, is frequently and practically applied in the construction of a window screen. Measure a window at home and make a screen for it; stock 7/8"x2" or 2 1/4" is heavy enough for an average sized screen; any kind of soft wood is suitable; join with corrugated nails; after the screen wire is tacked on, trim with thin strips or flat moulding.

Hall Rack

2. A very attractive hall rack may be constructed on almost exactly the same principles as the picture frame; it should be made considerably heavier, and might have two or more cross mullions. The central frame should contain a mirror; artistic hooks of a desirable size and design should be properly placed on the frame and mullions.