This section is from the book "Text-Book On Domestic Art", by Carrie Crane Ingalls. Also available from Amazon: Textbook On Domestic Art: With Illustrations And Drafts.
Material, 2 1/2 yards, 36 inches wide.
This shirt waist opens in front.
Before laying front pattern on material, baste a box pleat 1 inch or more on right edge of cloth, the length between Dots 1 and 4.
Baste a 1/2-inch hem the same length on opposite front.
If goods is striped or plaided. let the width of box pleat be governed accordingly, so corresponding sides will look alike. Pin the two fronts together (with either right or wrong sides facing each other), place the front paper pattern with Dot 1 in center of box pleat at neck, and Dot 3, 2 inches to right of center pleat at waist.
More than 2 inches may be allowed if the material is very sheer.
Trace around edge of pattern, except front line. Notch on Dot 8, trace waist line, marking cross for gathers, and cut, allowing 1/4 inch on neck and armsizes, and 3/4 inch on shoulder, underarm seams and bottom of waist.
Place back paper pattern with Dots 1 and 5 on a lengthwise fold. Trace around edges, waist line, and cut, allowing 1/4 inch on neck and arm-sizes, and 3/4 inch on shoulder, underarm and bottom of waist.
Match underarm seams at waist line, and on shoulders, pinning, then basting, on traced or fitting lines.
Try on before stitching, and alter if necessary. Stitch as on other garments. On either side of waist line, half way between the underarm and center of back, make a mark to signify space to be gathered. Gather twice, 1/2 inch apart the first row on traced line, the second, below it, and pull up, to equal 3/8 the waist measurement between underarm seams.
These gathers are held in place by a belt or piece of tape 3/4 inch wide and 4 inches longer than the waist measurement (finished), and fastened over the back gathers at top and bottom of belt.
The fronts of shirtwaist may be gathered also between the notches, but, if made from washable material, it is easier laundered if left plain. Laying the fulness in straight pleats is a better mode of arranging fronts than in gathers, and should be fitted on the pupil.
Use collar band, drafted for night gown, and attach in same manner, cutting shorter on fronts if a smaller neck or box pleat has been allowed. Work small horizontal buttonhole on center back of neck band, and one on either end of front, far enough from edge to equal the neck measurement when fastened.
Make 3 large or 4 smaller vertical buttonholes on the box pleat, spacing evenly, between the neck and waist. Work bar ends.
Finish around bottom of shirt waist, with 1/2-inch hem.