Examiner in Dressmaking, Tailoring, 'french Pattern Modelling, Plain Needlework, and Millinery, of ihe Teachers in Training at the University College of South Wales and A/onmouthshire, Cardiff; the London Higher Technical Examination Centres, etc.; First Class Diploma for Tailoring; Diploma of Honour for Dressmaking; Diploma of Merit of the Highest Order for Teaching; Silver Medallist, London Exhibition, 1900; Silver Medal, Franco-british Exhibition, 1908; Author of " Up-to-date Dresscutting and Drafting" also " The Practical Work of Dressmaking and Tailoring."
It can be made with a boxpleat, 1 1/2 inches wide, down the centre-front, and four pleats, each about 1 inch wide, turned outwards, on each side of the front, or with three boxpleats, each 1 1/2 inches wide, on each side of the one in the centre.
Fig. 1. The shirt as it should appear when finished
To Cut the " American Yoke"
Before this yoke is cut out it is necessary to be quite sure that the bodice pattern from which it is to be cut fits perfectly on the shoulder: having no " fitting seam " there, once it is cut out, no alteration can be made at the shoulder. Place the material on the table, and fold over the " cut edge " wide enough to cut the whole yoke in one piece. The material must run selvedgewise across the back from shoulder to shoulder, as shown in Diagram 1. Place the top of the pattern of the back pieces on the material - the centre-back at the neck point against the fold (as shown in the diagram), to the depth desired for the yoke.
N.B. - The selvedge will be sufficient for the turning.
Pin the pattern through the material to the board with "push pins." These are illustrated on page 72, in Part 1. The advantage of using these pins is that the pattern cannot be "puckered." Place and pin the top of the pattern of the front pieces with the shoulder-seam exactly meeting that of the back. Take a tailor's square and chalk, and draw on the pattern a sloping line from the neck point to the armhole of the front. Take a piece of tailor's chalk, which must have a sharp edge, and outline the neck and armhole of the pattern; remove the pins from the top of the front, and fold the pattern over by the sloping line; draw a chalk line on the material along the folded edge of the pattern. Remove the pattern and cut out the yoke with half-inch turnings at the neck, armhole, and below the chalk line from neck to armholc. Tailor tack on the chalk lines, through to the under half of the yoke, slightly separate the two halves, cut through the tailor tacking, and open out the yoke, which should appear as in Diagram 2. Place this yoke on the single material and cut a second piece for the lining, exactly the same size, and with the stripes exactly matching the first piece.
Diagram 1. The pattern placed on the material, the neck point of centre'back to the fold
N.B. - This second piece need not be marked with chalk or tailor tacking.
Turn in each of the sloping lines and across the back, by the tailor tacking, and tack these turnings down neatly.
Before the lower part of the shirt is cut out; the centre boxpleat on the right half, the hem down the left half of the front, and the pleats on each side, must be made. Commence with the boxpleat on the right half of the front. This is to be 1 1/2 inches wide when finished, and as half an inch must be allowed on each side for turnings, the piece for the pleat must be 2 1/2 inches wide. A stripe should run down the centre of it, and to ensure this, measure from a stripe near the selvedge, 1 1/4 inches on each side, and tear the material to the required length - i.e., if the front measure of the bodice pattern from which the shirt will be cut is 15 inches, the strip must be cut 18 inches in length, to allow for the slope at the neck and for turning at the waist. Make a turning on the wrong side half an inch wide down each side of the strip, and tack it down.
Place the length of material on the table right side uppermost, and make a turning half an inch wide along the torn edge, the length of the strip, and tack it down.
N.B. - This turning must be on the right side. Place the strip just made over and slightly beyond the turned up edge of the material. Tack it down, near the edge, in this position, and then tack down the other side.
The strip now forms the boxpleat. The four pleats can now be made. Measure on the material from the edge of the boxpleat about 1 1/4 inches, and stick in a pin downwards. From it, fold the material over and make a pleat about £ of an inch in depth, pin, and then tack it down flat to the material, the length of the boxpleat.
From the edge of this first pleat measure
1 1/4 inches on the material, and again place a pin downwards. From it, fold the material over and make a second pleat, 3/4 of an inch in depth, pin, and then tack it down the same length as the first. Make the third and fourth pleats in the same way.
Diagram 2. Cut through the tailor tacking and open out the yoke
N.B. - The pleats will not be stitched down the whole length of the front, and it is not absolutely necessary to tack them all the way down; but if this is done, it is easier for an amateur to cut out the lower part of the shirt correctly.
Next machine stitch the boxpleat down each side near the edge (the width of the "presser foot" of the machine is a good guide for the distance from the edge), then stitch each pleat half an inch from the edge. The first pleat (the one next the boxpleat) should be stitched down to about half its length; the second pleat about 1 inch shorter than the first; the third pleat about 1 inch shorter than the second, and the fourth pleat about one inch shorter than the third. Finish off the stitching at the bottom of each pleat by drawing the upper thread through to the wrong side of the material and tying it to its own under-thread. Cut off the ends.