We have had several requests to publish a Monthly Calendar of Fruit, Vegetable, and Flower garden operations. We are obliged for any suggestions for the improvement of our journal, but in reply to this we must beg our Mends to remember that a monthly calendar would be merely a repetition from year to year, and would occupy space which we hope to be enabled to fill with some new suggestion or notice of tree, fruit, or flower, etc. In our "Table," we intend from time to time to give brief hints of such of the most important items of labor as are requisite in horticultural pursuits, and especially of such as at the time seem to claim a large proportion of interest.

By so doing, we believe we shall better serve the end for which we write, viz., advancement of all the arts of rural life, than to occupy two or more pages with stereotyped monthly calendarial instructions.

Herbemont Vineyard, Warsaw, ILL.,

September 18, 1866.

Messrs. Editors: Since writing the letter on transplanting, published in the September Horticulturist, I have been experimenting with strawberry plants, and find that they can be transplanted during the hot months of June, July, and August, equally as safely and as well as in spring or fall. From July 1 to August 81 we have had unusually hot and dry weather, even for the Valley of the Mississippi, yet every week I have planted strawberry plants, from, twenty to thirty each time. Some of the plants, in fact nearly all, were planted when the soil was as dry as it possibly could be - not a particle of moisture in the surface soil, and after some of these plantings not a drop of rain fell for four or five weeks - yet they withstood the burning sun, without protection, without watering, or checking their growth in the least. I have not lost a single plant up to this time; and those planted first have thrown out runners-covering nearly as large a space as the runners of plants set in the spring in the usual way.

I have chosen for my plantings the warmest part of the hot, clear, sunshiny days; and if well set, with plenty of water, the plants never wilt

In a letter written me by Mr. H. Paddel-ford, of Carondelet, Mo., who is somewhat celebrated as a grower of small fruits (written since the reception of the September Horticulturist), he says: "In July last, during the hottest weather of the season, I set out two thousand (2,000) strawberry plants in the same way as mentioned in your letter, with this difference: that, in place of drawing the dirt into the water, I dropped it gradually around the plant until sufficiently thickened up to hold it firm; then cover with an inch of dry dirt. A drouth prevailed at the time of setting, and continued five or six weeks, yet they withstood the scorching sun without protection, or watering, or in the least checking their growth. I have set out many hundred plants, but none looked as well. I take up a plant, shake the dirt from its roots, and set it out on a hot, scorching day, in the full glare of the sun, without wilting or in the least checking its growth. Few are prepared to believe this; but, nevertheless, it can be done, with the leaves remaining as erect as when standing in their original bed This plan, to those largely engaged in transplanting, will prove very valuable - no other will compare with it."

Such is the testimony of Mr. Paddelford in its favor; and my own experience has proven, beyond a doubt, that any healthy plant, from a strawberry to the largest fruit-tree or evergreen, can in this way be planted, with the doubt of its growing removed from the mind of the planter who has never before set plants or trees in this way. No one who tries it once will ever plant in any other way. Out of thirty-four large evergreens, I planted thirty in this way, and four without water. The thirty are all alive, and have made a good growth; two out of the four are dead, the remaining two made no growth, not even starting to grow. Several persons who had trees out of the same lot have lost nearly all, so have they their fruit-trees, while none of mine have failed to make a large growth. As for the Delaware grapevines spoken of in my letter, transplanted from hot-beds into the open ground in June, I measured some to-day, that we pinched back two weeks ago, that averaged four feet - one had a cane eight feet high; and my Iona and Israella have canes averaging six feet. I will send some specimens to Messrs Woodward, that they may see for themselves.

I am anxious that all horticulturists, and all others who have a tree or plant to set out, should try this method, for I know it will prevent much vexation and disappointment.

I would like to say a word for the Iona, Delaware, and Israella, I see so many writing about them. For instance, a writer says, in the Prairie Farmer, that his Iona and Israella made a growth of from one to six inches. I wonder what kind of plants he had, or what care he gave them. Another says the Israella is tasteless. Now, I have planted hundreds of each, and no vine is more healthy, hardy, or makes a larger growth than the Iona or Israella, or the Delaware either, at least on my own grounds. This year I have one hundred and fifty Delaware vines bearing for the second time (third year in vineyard). I have picked and marketed them, and the vines averaged fifteen pounds each of the most perfect fruit. My Iona and Israella vines - this their first season of bearing - gave equally as much fruit. The Iona and Israella vines were a perfect picture of what a grapevine should be - the Iona loaded with its large, compact clusters, of a color peculiar to it alone, something like that of the Delaware, but more clear and pure, reminding one of the pure beauty of some precious stones (I don't know their name, but you get the idea). There is no grape that can compare with the Iona in beauty; then it is large, larger than the Catawba in bunch and berry; and in quality, none can equal it in purity and spirit.

The Delaware has a more condensed sweetness, but has not the life. Besides these good qualities, it has, so far as my experience goes, proven to be as productive as any grape I have, not excepting the Concord.

What I have said of the Iona is equally true of the Israella, except that its fruit is black, with a heavy bloom; bunch large though not as large as the Iona; berry very large; the bunch very compact, more so than the Delaware; the quality of its fruit, when perfectly ripe, is excellent; it is very sweet, and free from any fox, or other bad taste; it has all the necessary qualities to make it our best early market grape, ripening here August 5th this year, when the Hartford could not be eaten two weeks later; very compact, so as to pack well; the berries never drop from the bunch; it is of good size in bunch and berry, which is very necessary in a market grape. I have clusters yet remaining on the vines that look as well as they did five weeks ago; and though we have had continued rain from August 81st, which has caused the Delaware and Catawba to crack badly and fall from the bunch, not a berry of the Israella or Iona has cracked or fallen. My experience is, that the Iona and Israella are as hardy as the Concord. Here, all varieties must be covered in winter to secure a crop. Last winter, young vines of all varieties were killed, so were young apple-trees, hardy evergreens, and roses.

That proves nothing, except that we must plant large, strong vines, so as to get them strong enough, and roots deep enough in the ground not to freeze out. C. J. Mat.