You have requested me to furnish you with a Monthly Vineyard Calendar for your valuable magazine. I shall do so cheerfully, and with a hope that it may, in some measure, assist to extend the cultivation of the vine. In whatever aspect this- new branch of agriculture may be viewed, its usefulness will be acknowledged by all unbiassed minds.

The cultivation of the vine is rapidly on the increase all over the West and Southwest. The uplands of North and South Carolina, Tennessee, and Georgia, have recently been discovered to be admirably adapted to the growth of our great wine grape, the Catawba, There it is getting back to its native locality, after years of wandering over the Middle and Western States. The sale of cuttings and grape roots in Cincinnati alone, will be about 1,500,000 of the former, and 300,000 to 400,000 of the latter, during the present season.

It is with some diffidence that I offer directions for the cultivation of the vine to your numerous readers, scattered, as they are, over the whole Union. But I trust I may be pardoned for my presumption, when I state that the rules here given are such as are practised bythe best vine dressers in this vicinity. The intelligent cultivator elsewhere, will of course make due allowance for the difference of climate and soil.

With some vine dressers, this is the great month for spring pruning, but it is found best to prune, in any mild and open weather, in February - never in hard, freezing weather - so that too much work may not be thrown into March. Some commence pruning late in November, and continue all through the winter, when the weather permits. This will be the mode best adapted to the South.

In adopting the spur and bow system - which is in general use in this vicinity - the best cane or branch of last years growth is selected, and cut back to six, eight, ten, or twelve joints, according to the strength of the vine; this is to form the bow. The bow of last year is cut away. Another cane, below this, is cut back to two joints, and left for the spur, from which the bow will probably be formed the succeeding year, the object being to keep the stock or stem of the vine down to one to two feet from the ground. The new or last year's wood, trimmed from the vines, is then out into lengths of twenty to twenty-four inches, and tied up, with willow ties, into bundles of one hundred to two hundred, and kept in a cool, damp cellar, or buried on end with the buds a few inches in the ground, to be ready for sale or for planting when the ground opens in April.

In preparing cuttings, reject the small spindling tops of the vine, and put up none but the strong, well-ripened wood, and if a piece of the old wood is left on the cutting, it will better assist it to strike root.

In any open, dry weather in this month, manure may be put in if required, and walls and trenches repaired, if any, but never when the ground is wet. Toward the latter end of the month, the stakes may be driven tight, and any broken ones replaced. And, late in this month, should the buds begin to swell, the bow may be formed by fastening the centre of the cane to the stake with a willow tie, and bending round and fastening the point (or upper end) to the stake at the base of the bow with another willow tie. This should be done, in moist weather, in the forepart of the day. The vine is then more pliable, and less liable to break in bending.

Training on trellises is very simple. The vine is cut down in judicious proportion to its capacity, and spurs of the new wood left from two to ten joints, according to their position on the trellis, and fastened to it with willow ties.

Any vine that may have died, may be replaced by putting down a good layer from the adjoining vine, as soon as the root is cat of the ground. R. Buchanan.

Cincinnati, Feb., 1867.