This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
AT the annual meeting of the Pennsylvania Fruit Growers Society at Chambers-burg, Pa., last January, in the course of the session, the subject of forcing strawberries under glass was discussed. The most important facts were elicited from the remarks of D. W. Herstine, the substance of which is as follows:
I doubt very much whether greenhouse culture in pots or boxes could be made profitable, even if they could be ripened in February and March and sold at five to six dollars per quart. But what I term hot-bed and cold-frame culture, is so simple and attended with so little expense and labor over that of open air culture, that I bold they can be made profitable, aside from which is the satisfaction to an amateur of raising an abundance of that delicious fruit for his own table for from two to three months (from April to July), instead of as many weeks, as is usual (in June). For the hot-bed I layer the earliest and strongest runners in small pots, and when well rooted, transfer them to six inch pots, the soil to be of such a character as to encourage the most vigorous growth during the fall. I give them sufficient protection to prevent hard freezing during early winter, and during the mild weather which usually occurs in January, I prepare the hot-bed with a view of getting only moderate heat that will last the longest time, and have found about equal parts of stable manure and forest leaves to answer this purpose admirably.
The soil should be very rich, six or eight inches deep being sufficient; I then knock the plants out of the pots very carefully so as to disturb the roots as little as possible, and set them about four to every square foot, then put on the glass; they will start at once without drooping a particle and make a surprisingly vigorous growth; they require careful attention as far as airing is concerned, and an occasional watering, unless there are plenty of warm rains in February and March, during which the sash can be pulled down. I have planted January 15th and ripened fruit by April 1st. The Wilson's Albany is the variety above all others suitable for this mode of culture, and in fact is the only one which has given me a satisfactory result. For the cold-frame I prepared the ground about as an amatuer would for open air culture, trenching deep and manuring Heavily. Set the plants in the spring, one to every foot square, keeping clear of weeds and runners during the summer, cultivating moderately. Before bard freezing commences, or at any time during the fall, set the frames, which should not be over 15 inches high on the one side and 10 to 12 inches on the other, giving only sufficient slope to carry off the water.
The most convenient width for the frame is eight feet, and sash four feet wide. The plants should receive about the usual winter mulching, as in open air culture, of leaves or clean straw. About the middle of February or as soon after as the weather will admit, the mulching should be removed and the sash put on; a healthy growth will soon commence, and the only care they require after that is the proper airing, an occasional weeding and watering. I let them have all the warm rains that fall during February and March. I have always succeeded in ripening fruit about the first of May, or four weeks before it ripens in the open air, and of the largest size and finest flavor, much larger than I have ever grown the same varieties out doors. From a frame 8 by 16, I picked the first crop 25 quarts, the second 22, and the third 15 quarts. From a frame 100 feet long, 8 feet wide, I picked the first crop 120 quarts, which I sold at an average of about two dollars per quart, starting at five dollars and down to one dollar, netting two hundred and twenty dollars, and the whole cost of the sash and frame was one hundred and fifty dollars, and they will last for ten or more years.
Not more than two full crops can be taken from one bed; in growing for profit it would probably be advisable not to depend on more than one; that would only involve the necessity of shifting the frames every season, which is a small matter. The varieties I have found best adapted to this mode of culture, are the "Wilson's Albany," "Russell's Prolific," "Jucunda," and "Stinger." I tried various others without any success; Triomphe DeGand, Agriculturist, Fillmore, and others, and in growing for profit I would discard all but the two first named. The "Jucunda," and " Stinger" attain to an enormous size, are moderately productive, but not sufficiently early for profit.
C, of Burlington, N. J., would like to know how to force strawberries under glass, and which berry answers best for this purpose ? The management will vary much with circumstances, with the amount to be raised, and the degree of earliness desired. We shall describe briefly the simplest mode, where a small supply for a family is wanted. The plants should be potted soon after the out-door bearing season, or when the runners begin to form. One year plants are sometimes employed, but the best are those obtained by causing the new plants from the runners to form in the pot. Take small pots, fill them with a fine and rich compost, made of pulverized turf or leaf-mold with some sand as its nature may require, and fourth, of fine old manure, cow' manure being best. The compost should have been previously worked over in a thorough manner. Sink these pots to their rims in or near the strawberry beds when runners are forming, so that the new plants may be made to root in the pot, nipping off the outer runner, and cutting off the inner when the roots are formed. Then place the pots on bricks where worms cannot enter from below. As the plants grow larger, remove them to larger pots, without breaking the ball of soil. Water enough to keep them in a good growing state.
Before winter, remove to a warm, well lighted cellar, and water as sparingly as a proper condition of the plants will admit, so as to make a season of rest. If to be forced in a hotbed, place them there as soon as it is ready for them ; if in a green-house, it should be as low as may be, and the plants near the glass, where the warmer air rises. They should now be well watered, but not water-soaked. Do not water them while in bloom, when the anthers are bursting, and keep the temperature uniform. The crop should be thinned early, if it sets very thick, The flavor is always less high on forced plants, and the highest flavored sorts should therefore be selected. - Country Gentleman.
 
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