Grafted evergreens are generally not of much value. The Spruces may be grafted on one another, not on Pines.

We wish to obtain a description of the size, color, and quality of the following varieties of Plums: 1, Italian Prune; 2, Norman Perdrigen; 8, Sugar; 4, Bells de Riom; 5, Large Red Thoulouse; 6, Merveille de New Kent; 7, Cruthrie'sTopan; 8, Lewustown Egg. We have examined all the works on the subject in our possession, but can find no mention of them. We might, we presume, get all the particulars from the nurseryman from whom we obtained them, but we have already been sufficiently "tricked" by him, to destroy all faith in the correctness of any description he might furnish us. An Old Subscribes, - Hamilton, (C. W).

The only one in the list which we can speak of from experience is the first Fellemberg, Italian Prune, and Swiss Prune, have proved identical with us; a large oval, dark bluish purple Plum, of excellent quality; tree, a stout grower, of low, spreading habit, and very productive. Nos, 3 and 8 are American sorts, which we have only heard of No. 7 is an English or Scotch sort, found in the English catalogues and described "a late, yellow, good Plum." Eos. 2, 4, 5, and 6, are strangers to us, even in name. Will some one else supply the information 9

Permit me to ask you two questions I anxiously desire to have answered.

Will the Norway Spruce shear handsomly for a hedge four or five feet high? Have you ever seen a specimen ? (1) What is a good hardening substance for paths on a sandy soil, in lieu of grarel, which is very scarce here ? (2) Coal tar is easily procured. Can a good path be made by mixing it with sand? A Subscriber. - Springfield.

(1) The Norway Spruce bears the shears as well as the Arbor Vita. We have frequently seen trees shorn, but not hedges.

(2) You can no doubt make a good hard walk with coal tar and coarse sand; but we can not recommend it The color will always be disagreeable, and if concealed by a thin coat of gravel on the top, the walking will not be pleasant With a foot deep of small stones in the middle of your walk, a thin coat of gravel will suffice. Walks made of tar and gravel, or any of these materials, which form a concrete, are good on hill-sides, where gravel washes by heavy rains. Considering the influence that a good gravel walk has upon both the beauty and comfort of a garden, it is worth while to incur some trouble and expense to secure it.

Gaum - I wish you would tell me if you know what to do with my Grape vines. They are of the Isabella and Catawba varieties, planted in not very stiff clay, or red soil I have tried every experiment, and worked them in every way recommended by the most approved cultivators, and yet can not succeed in getting a crop of Grapes. I have pruned them close and moderately; I have also suffered them to go without pruning; I have manured them In every way that I can think of - with fresh, and old stall manure - with muck, ashes, lime, plaster, bone-dust, and guano; I have worked them deep and shallow, and suffered them to grow without working; I have kept them clean, and left them in the grass; I have them in close soil, and in gravel - and yet I can get no fruit. They put out profusely, and grow off thrifty, every spring - are loaded with fruit until it obtains Its full growth, and promises an abundant crop, and then begins to rot. A black speck first makes its appearance, and then spreads rapidly, until the whole become perfectly black, and then drops or dries up on the vine - most commonly the latter. What do not take that course, remain on the vines perfectly green until near Christmas, and then gradually dry up.

Last fall the larger portion of my crop was in that condition - so fair and flourishing, apparently, that I did not despair of their ripening, until winter fairly set in. I have searched various works to find something on the subject, but have found nothing to throw any light on it If such a state of things has ever come under your notice, and you can give me any information on the subject, it will be thankfully received. J. C.- Hanover Co., Va.

We submit this case to our readers; perhaps some of them may have had similar experience and found a remedy. For our own part we think the chief difficulty lies in the soil. A red clay soil is not suited to the Grape.

Grafting Evergreens #1

A Subscriber, (Newton, Mem.) The French nurserymen are very successful ingrafting evergreens, and practice it as follows: " the proper time for grafting pines, is when the young shoots have made about three-quarters of their length, and are still so herbaceous as to break like a shoot of asparagus. The shoot of the stock is then broken off about two inches below its terminal bud; the leaves are stripped off from 20 to 24 lines down from the extremity, leaving, however, two pairs of leaves opposite and close to the upper end of the shoot so headed back - which leaves are of great importance for drawing up the sap. The shoot or stock is then split to the depth of two inches, with a very thin knife, between the two pairs of leaves left; the scion is then prepared - the lower part being stripped of its leaves to the length of two inches, and is then cut to a wedge and inserted, in the ordinary mode of cleft grafting. The graft is tied with a slip of woolen, and a cap of paper is fastened to a stake, and firmly fixed over the whole graft, to protect it from the sun and rain.

At the end of 15 days this cap is removed, and the ligature at the end of a month." Some evergreens, grafted in this way, make a second growth of five or six inches the first year - but most sorts do not start till the next year.