I was shown a freak in the Grape Tine, a lew days since, that beats all that has ever come under my notice. WM. Lxhman, of Lebanon, a very exact and careful florist and horticulturist, engrafted grapes of a first-rate variety, - a seedling of his own raising, much resembling the Catawba, - upon roots of some other good varieties, three or four years ago, the result of which he showed me; upon three of the vines there is now fruit; and a more vilalnous thing in the Grape line never went into a man's mouih. They are about the size of Elderberries, nearly all seed, and as sour and as astringent as a Tamarisk. Here they lay before me, as taken from the vines, - the original, and the engrafted, - and a greater metamorphose could not Casily be undergone. The question arises, can such a thing be ? Were it not that Mr. Lehman is a man of taste in such matters, I would doubt it. But the vines and leaf favor the original plant I will give you his own words on the subject, "Had I taken roots of some wild Grape, I might believe that the graft failed, and these were sprouted from the root; but there was never such a grape on my grounds; and further, I know that the grafts grew".

My object in writing this, la to learn whether Grape grafts often cut such freaks. If so, there is no dependence in the operation. Of this very Grape, I sent Mr. Longworth, of Cincinnati, some cuttings for grafting, some years ago; and if they turned out with him as they did with Mr. L. he will think me a very knave, when at the same time I thought I was placeing in his hands a Grape of considerable value.

I should much like to hear in your next number of the Horticulturist whether you have ever seen any thing of the kind. S. M. - Galmdate, near Lebanon, Pa.

We have never heard of such a case. Is it not probable that Mr. Lehman made a mistake in cutting bis scions? If only one vine had produced such fruit, or but one bunch, it would not have been very remarkable; but that three should, is very strange, and compels us to think there must be an error somewhere.

Will you please to inform me how to propagate dwarf box how long must it remain In the bed before it wh answer to set It for the border? can a box that was planted last spring be removed this fall with safety ? (1)

Is not an evergreen screen composed of but one variety, too monotonous? Would not a greater effect be produced by alternating Bed Cedar, European, Chinese, and American Arbor Vitse, English Yew, Holley, etc (2) C. F. W.

Huron, Ohio.

(1) Propagate dwarf box by cuttings, or by division of the plants. If yon have any old box tear it in pieces and set them in the ground so that only two or three inches of the top will be above the surface, and in one season it will root sufficiently to be fit for edging.

Box panted last spring may be safely removed this fall, but it should be done early or deferred till spring.

(2) We prefer screens composed of but one variety of plant, because a uniform regular growth is indispensable.

A hedge or screen more particularly is something in which variety is seldom sought for as in plantations.

Will you inform me how to propagate the Climbing Honeysuckle (1), Buffalo Berry (2), Syringa (S), Snow-Berry (4), Snow-Ball (5), and Rose of Sharon (6)? Will the seeds of the Blackberry, Lily, Tiger Lily, and German Iris, produce plants like the original (7)? B. C. ChUsEt. - Wyoming, Wis.

(1) By layers.

(2) By seeds. (8) By layers.

(4 and 5) By layers and suckers.

(6) By cuttings.

(7) The Blackberry not always; the others will unless different sorts are growing together.

Do you know Bilbergia thyreoidea I have it in bloom. It is a magnificent plant It is the most splendid Dro-mellsn plant I have seen; the beautiful Acchmea are nothing in comparison to It ARTHOPHOLUS.

Grape-Grafting #1

I have just read, in your January No., El Medico's Treatise on Grape-Grafting, and if you think proper I will add my experience in the same art. In the spring of 1859,1 imported direct from Los Angeles cuttings from the celebrated California Grape. They arrived when my vines were getting into leaf, but having some stocks which were useless to me, I determined to try the experiment, but without much hope of success. I cleft grafted about one dozen stocks, a few inches above the ground;' wrapped them carefully with bast and wax, and*, to my surprise, they all took, and many of them grew from twelve to fifteen feet during the summer; and what was quite as remarkable, most of them bore fruit the same season.

I simply give the facts. I will leave it with others to make comments.

New Orleans, Feb. 2, 1861. H.

[Your climate is infinitely more favorable to the success of the operation than that of " El Medico;" still, your marked success ought to encourage him to further efforts. We are glad to see that the trials of " El Medico" have awakened so much sympathy. He must not give it up yet - Ed].

To toe Editor of the Horticulturist:- Sir: I wrote some weeks ago to request that you would inform me, through the Horticulturist, whether you knew of any good Heart or Bigarreau Cherry later than Downer's Late. Will you have the goodness to say? May I trouble you to give a list of six Heart and Bigarreau Cherries, of early and late ripening, which you would recommend, having especial regard to hardiness in the tree. My former letter was no doubt destroyed in the late fire. - Your obedt servt, Toronto, Canada, 25th Jan'y, 1861. An Old Subscriber.

[We know of but few good cherries later than Downer's Late, most of the later kinds not being worth'growing. The best of those that ripen later are the following: Black Bigarreau of Savoy, Buttner's Black Heart, and Sweet Montmorency, about the middle of July. Pierce's Late, last of July. The Hovey, of which we have only seen the fruit, last of July; but our Boston friends say it hangs on till first of August Then, ripening usually about the time of the Downer, we have the Amber Gean, Black Eagle, and Florence. There are some of Dr. Kirtland's seedlings which we have not seen, which are said to be much later and of good quality; his early kinds we know to be so good, that we should be willing to take the later ones on trust. In regard to early and late Bigarreau and Heart Cherries, you will find the following to give you a succession of delicious fruit. Early Purple Guigne, last of May; Knight's Early Black, Black Tartarian, Gov. Wood, Elton, first to third week in June; Bigarreau or Yellow Spanish, last of June; Holland Bigarreau, first of July. This is about the relative time of ripening, when planted under the same conditions.

Your former letter shared the common fate, and we are obliged to you for having repeated your quaeries. - Ed].

Will the Editor of the Horticulturist please answer the following questions at some convenient time?

What would be the disadvantages (if any) in planting a grape-vine on the north side of a building, and training the branches on the south side?

Would plaster be profitably used in very sandy soil?

What are well-ripened Concord Grapes worth, wholesale and retail, in their season, in New York?

I have a water-tight vat, some ten feet square and three feet deep, in which we put soapsuds, slops, and refuse matter from the house, The privy is over one end of it. The soap suds accumulate faster than I can find absorbents. What absorbents would you recommend, and what deodorizers? Please tell us the best thing to be done to prevent its giving off any thing injurious to health in hot weather? R. C, Jr.

Provincetown, 1861.

[The disadvantage would be, that your border would never be properly warmed by the genial rays of the sun, the soil would be liable to become sour, Ac, and your grapes would be lacking in flavor; your vines would also be peculiarly liable to mildew. If you must plant on the north side of the house, let your border be most thoroughly drained, and if not already sandy, use sand freely and a portion of vegetable mould, the object being to obtain a light and warm soil. The manure used should be old and thoroughly decayed. You may thus obviate some of the disadvantages. Plant Delaware, Concord, or Diana, but not Isabella or Catawba. - We do not think you can use plaster profitably on very sandy soil, except as a top dressing to grass. Muck is what you want - The price of well-ripened Concords varies in different seasons from 15 to 25 cents or more per pound. We saw some handsome bunches sell last fall for 80 thirty cents per pound. - In regard to your vat, dry muck is the best absorbent; for a deodorizer you can use charcoal dust, gypsum, or green vitriol, (sulphate of iron.) Two or three pounds of green vitriol or copperas, dissolved in a pail of water, are sufficient to deodor ize a large mass of material like the contents of your vat You will probably find the muck and charcoal, however, to answer all your purpose. - Ed].

The California Agriculturist says, on the authority of several experienced vine growers, that the most favorable time for grafting the grape is when the leaves are started and the vines cease to bleed. Grafted at this period of growth, it is claimed that the cion will start into growth quicker and will be more likely to live than if the work be done earlier in the season. The cions should be of the last season's growth and of well ripened wood.