The Cross Strips

If you are cutting this material from stock it will be necessary to rip out the cross strips. In this case select the best surface of your stock for the working face (Chapter II., Paragraph 2). Carefully plane one edge for a working edge (Chapter II., Paragraph 4). With a marking gauge, lay out the width (Chapter II., Paragraph 6). Rip just outside the gauge line, and plane to the line. Again prepare a working edge on the stock material, and in the same manner lay out and rip the second strip. Continue this process until all the strips are provided. If the strips are provided properly ripped, all you will need to do is to prepare a working edge, and gauge the width as already indicated.

Assembling

Notice that the strips are to be gained into the upright their full size. Measure and lay out the spaces between the strips. With a try-square, square across the working edge of the upright where the gains are to be cut. Be very careful not to lay out the gains too wide, or the strips will not fill them and the joints will be bad. If your strips have been perfectly prepared they will be the same width, and the gains will all be cut exactly alike. If there is any variation, it will be necessary for you to test each strip to see that it will fit the gain laid out for it. In sawing for gains, saw just inside the pencil lines. With the marking gauge, gauge the depth of these gains on both surfaces of the upright. Do not gauge beyond the pencil lines, for this will leave an ugly mark on your upright. With the back saw, saw down to the gauge line, and with a sharp chisel cut out the wood between the saw kerfs. The bottom and top strips are to be cut a little shorter than the others so as to give the rack a pleasing shape; use your own judgment in this matter. The strips are to be fastened in place with nails (Chapter II., Paragraph 21).

The Brackets

Lay out the brackets in any suitable design. Saw them out with the compass saw or coping saw, and carefully smooth the edges with a wood file. Fasten the brackets into position with nails, making sure they are perfectly square so as to make the strips stand square across the upright. The wire should be fastened with staples on the outer ends of the strips.

Finishing

As this flower trellis is to be used out of doors, where it will be exposed to the weather, it should be well painted (Chapter IV., Paragraph 52) or given a good oil stain.

Optional and Home Projects Employing Similar Principles.

A Metal Trellis

1. A very durable flower trellis may be made by bending a long piece of iron pipe to form a half-circle, or any other desired curve. The ends of the pipe should be driven in the ground deep enough to cause it to stand perfectly rigid. This framework should be neatly covered with poultry netting. With this style of trellis fancy and ornamental shapes may be worked out if desired.

Bent Wood Trellis

2. A very interesting trellis may be made by ripping a wide board almost its full length, and spreading the strips into some pleasing shape, as shown in suggestion No. 3. A bolt should be put through the board edgewise to prevent splitting. The wood for this sort of trellis must be carefully selected. It must be straight grained; elm would probably be the most suitable.