Special Features

Although the escutcheon is taken as an example of how it is possible to add difficulty and a new tool operation in successive steps to a simple form, there are many other objects which can be treated in a similar manner.

Object And Uses

A collection of easy models suitable as exercises in forging. Their various names convey their uses.

No. I. Tommy or Lever.

This should be made from steel and not cut off until it has been drawn down. | in. round tool steel about 2 ft. 6 in. long, suitable for holding without the use of tongs, is a convenient size. Should be left from the hammer and not filed up.

Fig.3 .-Models for forge practice.

No. 2. Screwdriver.-Made in the same way as No. 1, but for spreading the wide part, a fuller, placed lengthwise down the rod, should be used. 3/8 in. square tool steel would be suitable. Draw the round portion down first, then fuller out to width, cut off, and draw down tang. Shape with hammer as much as possible, trim up with bastard and smooth files, finish off on emery bob, then harden and temper point to a dark brown.

No. 3. Holdfast.-This is a forging exercise, and a file should not be used on it.

Have a suitable piece of 1/2 in. x 1/4 in. iron, heat to a welding heat and slightly up-set the end, then place end on anvil and flatten. Shape up with a set hammer and work up projecting piece (this is the difficult part); draw away and roughly point, and punch the hole while hot. Cut off, and finish, drawing down the point. If preferred the processes could be reversed, that is, the point drawn out first.

No. 4. Tap Wrench.-According to the size of the holes required, so choose the iron. Draw down and round up one end, repeat for other end, then cut off to length; round up ends and punch the holes, driving a parallel drift through to finish. Should not be touched with a file.

No. 5. Cabin Hook.-Use 3/8 in. square iron. Draw down and round the end, bend up the eye as shown on page 67, Fig. 7, to the size required. Cut off the length required, draw down and round end for hook. Bend up the hook and cool out. Heat in centre and twist as shown on page 74.

No. 6. Staple.-Cut off to correct length, then draw down the ends and bend to shape. To make this a little more difficult, weld two pieces together and see that the weld comes in the middle of the bend, then draw out the ends and bend to shape while cold.

No. 7. Centre Punch.-This should be made from 7/16, in. square tool steel and drawn down to shape and cut off to the length required. Trim up with bastard and smooth files, harden and temper point to a dark brown. This should not be put in the lathe to make the end circular, it should be done by hand.

The preceding models involve all the elementary forging exercises, and give good practice in the use of a hammer; the file should be used as little as possible.

The illustrations in Fig. 4 show the correct position to take when performing various operations. The position of the feet for instance in (1), (2), (3) being most important, for unless the operator is standing correctly the work cannot be done efficiently.

(1) Illustrates a piece of square iron being held in the tongs while the end is being upset or thickened. This operation frequently occurs in working iron, and it should be noticed that the tongs fit and grip the work so that it cannot slip. The same position applies when holding a bar of iron.

(2) This shows the position to be taken when bending iron. The fork fits into the square hole in the anvil and the operator is holding a scroll in the left hand and a scroll wrench in his right hand. By this means plenty of power is obtained, and a large amount of curved work can be done cold.

(3) This illustration shows the method of standing, and using a top and bottom swage and a sledge hammer. The operation being performed is "rounding up a tenon on a piece of 3/4 in. square iron". It should be noticed that in using all kind of top tools, hot setts, etc., the top tool should be at right angles to the work.

(4) Shows the correct method of holding a hammer and chisel when chopping out. The usual fault in the use of a hammer is that it is not lifted up high enough to do its proper work. The reproduction shows the natural position assumed when the hammer is used by a skilled craftsman.