A Loose Centre

I. Cut off a piece of steel 1 in. longer than the finished length.

2. Anneal, square the ends, centre them.

3. Drill 1/8 in. or 5/32 in. holes § in. deep in both ends.

4. Countersink both ends, angle of countersink to be the same as that of the centres being used.

5. Fix a lathe dog on one end, and screw a carrier chuck on the nose-piece of lathe headstock and hold it between the centre, seeing that it runs freely without shake; oil centre and tighten up bolts and set screws on lathe so that the work cannot jump out while being turned.

6. Turn to correct size and shape, using the slide rest, and note that the cutting edge of tool is at the centre of the work.

Vee Block Or Drilling Plug

1. Cut off a piece of 1 1/8 x 1 1/8 in. iron 1 in. longer than the length of the plug. This could be turned from the square stock, or the taper end could be brought to a welding heat and swaged down.

2. Anneal it, square the ends, centre them.

3. Drill 1/8 in. or 5/32 in. holes 3/8 in. deep in both ends.

4. Countersink both ends, angle of countersink to be the same as that of the centres being used.

5. Fix a lathe dog on one end, and run between the lathe centres so that it turns freely but does not shake.

6. Turn accurately to shape, taking a light cut only over the corners of the square.

7. Cut out vee piece with a hack saw.

8. File up accurately, and see that the centre of the angle is in the centre of the plug.

9. Finish off with a piece of fine emery cloth wrapped once round a flat file, taking care not to rock the file.

Hammer Head

1. Cut a templet out of thin metal to exact shape of hammer head. Proceed as instructed in Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5 of a loose centre.

6. Turn to exact size and shape, using hand tools for the curved portions. For method of holding hand tools when turning iron or steel, see Fig. 8, p. 83.

7. File the two flat surfaces as shown on plan.

8. Mark centres on both sides of hammer head for two 7/16 in. holes.

9. Chip a small level surface on sides of centre marks so that drill can start without running off.

10. Drill 1/4 in. or 3/16 in. holes right through by drilling from each side alternately.

11. Drill the 7/16 in. holes, plugging the first hole drilled with a piece of iron or brass before commencing to drill the second hole.

12. Clip and file out the oval hole to the correct size, tapering it slightly from each side.

13. Finish off hammer head with smooth files and emery cloth.

14. Bring hammer head slowly to a red heat and quench out in oil or paraffin.

15. Fit the end of a piece of iron about 2 ft. long to the hole for the shaft which is called the eye and polish up the hammer head ready for tempering.

16. Heat the end of the piece of iron which has been fitted to the eye in the hammer head to a white heat and place quickly in the hole; keep reversing the hammer head, this draws the temper of the centre portion, and as the face or pane are tempered to the correct hardness quench out in oil.

17. Fit with a hickory or ash shaft and a wrought-iron wedge. Balanced Handle or Swape.-1. Cut off a piece of 1 3/8 in. round iron

1 in. longer than the finished length, also a piece for the handle proper.

2. Anneal them, square the ends, centre them.

3. Drill the holes and countersink them as described in previous paragraphs.

4. Hold them as previously described and turn to the correct sizes.

5. Drill a 3/8 in. hole in centre of cross bar, file it square with a square file.

6. Drive a 7/16 in. parallel drift through.

7. Drill and tap the smaller end of cross bar, but the hole must not go right through.

8. Screw with the adjustable stocks and dies the small handle and fit into cross bar.

9. Finish off with fine emery cloth and oil.