This section is from the book "Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction", by Laura I. Baldt. Also available from Amazon: Clothing For Women: Selection, Design, Construction.
Baste tuck on right hand side. Mark center front line on both pieces of front. Lay pieces together so that one center front line lies directly on top of the other, letting tuck extend as far beyond center front as you have planned to have the opening (Fig. 195). In basting seams use small stitches twelve inches down from the waist line so as to prevent stretching apart when fitting, and longer stitches on the rest of the seam. Turn the line at the bottom and pin the bottom of the skirt up to keep it clean and aid in seeing the trend of the seam lines. If the edge of the skirt is left to trail on the floor while the fitting is being done, it is not only in danger of becoming soiled, but as the skirt draws away, the seam lines do not appear as they will in the shorter finished length. Baste a bias strip of cambric or lawn, one-half inch wide, to the top of the skirt to keep it firm for stitching.
FIG. 193. - Pinning and basting panel to gore.
Have a belt finished to the correct waist measure, with hooks and eyes sewed on. If fitting to the normal waist line, the belt may be one inch in width or less. When fitting for a high waist line, use a belt the height you wish the edge of the skirt above the normal waist line. Place belt on figure. When fitting a skirt with a normal waist line, pin the skirt right side out at the waist line to the lower edge of the belt.
Pin the skirt to the belt, right side out, at the center back, center front and at the hips. Then pin at the hip line center back, center front and hips. Before beginning to fit, look skirt over very carefully. See if the lines are good. The lengthwise seams of a gored skirt should fall at right angles to waist line. Keep this in mind while fitting, and also that the skirt should set easily about the figure, otherwise in stitching it will become too tight; neither, will it allow for any additional shrinkage when laundered. Fitting should be done on the right hand side only, for the first time, unless there is a great difference between the two sides of the figure. Notice very particularly the hip seam on all gored skirts. If there is a tendency to swing forward or back, correct the line, taking from the bias edge of the gore nearest the front what is necessary or adding to it, whichever the need may be. Do not change the straight edge of the side gore. If the skirt pushes out in front, it may need to be lifted in the center back or to have some taken from the bias edge of the side gore next front. Sometimes you may find that the grain of the material on the first side gore at the hip runs down toward the back. Correct this by lifting the bias edge on the straight edge of the next gore until the grain of the material is brought into good position.
Fig. 194. - Pinning a straight and bias edge for basting.
Discard the original hip line on this gore. If you are satisfied that the lines of the seams are good, look at the hip line. This should be parallel to the floor. If it is not, change it by placing a line of pins around the figure. If the skirt is simply loose all over, it may be stitched inside the bastings on all seams, or vice versa. If it fits well at the hips and is loose at the waist, take the seams in where needed. It is sometimes necessary to take more off one seam than the other in order to keep the lines good. In fitting, be careful to place the pins so as to indicate good strong lines.