Paragraph 163. The faced placket (Par. 159) is a combination of the hemmed and extension plackets, the upper, or right edge of the opening being turned under in a hem, or faced back with silk or percaline, while the under, or left edge is finished with a double or faced strip extending under the upper edge. In making this placket, finish the upper or right edge first by folding under the material along its edge so it forms an exact line with the edge of the material in the remainder of the seam, and continue any stitching that appears in the seam. Baste along the fold with uneven basting (Par. 104), trim it down to 1" in width and if the material is light weight, finish the raw edge by turning it under, basting and hemming it in place, using very fine hemming stitches, which may be placed about 1/4 apart (the stitches should scarcely show on the right side of the material); or if the material is of heavier weight, the edge may be finished with overcasting, blanket stitching, bias tape or binding ribbon. When the placket is completed, the hooks are sewed on about 1/4" from the edge. The ends of the hooks may be covered as in Figure 73, by placing a piece of binding ribbon, or mercerized dress braid over them and hemming it down on the edges.
To finish the left or under side of the placket, put on an extension piece the same as in the extension placket (Par. 162), or cut a piece of material and a strip of lining or silk with which to face it, making each 1 1/2" wide and at least 1/4" longer than the opening. Lay the right side of the strip of material on the right side of the skirt, baste and sew to the edge of the opening with a 1/4" seam, making this seam come in direct line with the skirt seam (trim off the edge of the opening if necessary). Press open the seam with the fingers and face this strip with the lining by stitching the edges together, turning the facing under and hemming it to the under side of the material where the extension piece is stitched on. If the placket comes under a pleat it is necessary to allow this facing to extend beyond this stitching to make it come under the eyes when they are sewed on. Then turn in the edges at the bottom, baste them together and stitch around the bottom and the other edges with machine stitching. Sew on the eyes opposite the hooks.