This section is from the book "The Professed Cook: Or, The Modern Art Of Cookery, Pastry, And Confectionary", by B. Clermont. Also available from Amazon: The professed cook.
The names or appellations by which the different degrees of refining Sugar are distinguished, seern (as far as I am able to judge) to have no other meaning than their being adopted by custom in the French language. As I am unable to translate them literally to their true sense and proper meaning, and being very willing to explain them to the utmost of my power, (as it is a very necessary part of knowledge, to such as are employed in the preparation of Sweet-meats) I shall Hill retain the French appellations, with an explanation of their meaning, and distinguish each by first, second, etc. etc. degrees of refining. The different terms used in the French language will soon become familiar, as well as many others in Cookery already enumerated. I am unacquainted with the terms used by English Confectioners, as they are in every nation very secret in regard to the preparations of Sugar. The reason is very natural. To avoid any reflection of ungenerosity, I have not applied to any body in the course of the whole translation; but shall continue in my first and firm resolution, to finish it according to the Original, with such explanations as my small capacity enables me to give.
Cuissons mean the preparations of Eatables in all the different manners by Fire, either boiling, roast-ing, etc. etc. In this cafe I shall use the word refining after the first, which is clarifying. We have different ways of refining Sugar after it is clarified, each appropriated to different purposes, according to what use it intended; they follow according to their degrees of refining, and are distinguished by the following names: The first is called, petit Life; second, grand Life; third and fourth, Le petit & grand Perle; Fish and sixth, La petit & grande Queue de Cochon; seventh Le souffl'e; eighth and ninth, La petite & grande Plume; tenth and eleventh, Le petit & gros Boulet; twelfth, Le Cass'e; thirteenth, Le Caramel. - It is to be observed, that these are prepared with fine Sugar.
Proportion for three pounds of Sugar; put a pint of Water and half the White of an Egg in a Skillet, beat it up with a Whisk to froth the White of the Egg, put it upon the Fire with the Sugar, make it boil, and as it rises put a little Water to it, and so continue till the scum begins to turn blackish; then take it off the Fire and let it settle; as the scum rises of itself, take it off with a Skimmer, and put the Kettle on the Fire again; continue to boil it, as it rises throw in a little Water as before, and skim it continually, till it ceases to rise: When it is done, to clear it properly, sift it in a wet Napkin. Regulate the quantity of Water and Egg by this rule, for more or lets.
Put the clarified Sugar upon the Fire to boil gently; you will know when it is to this first degree, by dipping one finger in it, joining it to the thumb, and then opening them; for if it draws to a small thread, and in breaking returns to each finger in the nature of a drop, it is done.
 
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