This section is from the book "The Professed Cook: Or, The Modern Art Of Cookery, Pastry, And Confectionary", by B. Clermont. Also available from Amazon: The professed cook.
How to chuse Hogs Meat, and to cut it up.
Hog's Meat ought to hard and of a fine blooming colour, without any bad smell occasioned by heat; that which is soft and of a pale red is not good; neither is it wholesome when small white spots appear in the flesh. Pigs of six or eight months old, are fit for pickled Pork, or to roast; those of a year or fifteen months, are better to make Bacon: Sucking Pigs should be about three weeks old, and are to be taken from the fuck for use. All the meat employed for Sausages or Puddings, ought to be used directly, the Guts particularly, as by keeping they apt to heat, and to burst. The Diffection of the Urne is to be cut close to the Ears quite through; the Neck serves for Haslets; and the Ham is always cut into thin slices for eating, mixing fat and lean. The Wild Boar is cut the same way as the Hog, and the Marcassin (or Sucking Wild Boar) is dressed the same as the Sucking Pig.
I shall pass over any further directions; as every country has different ways of cutting up all sorts of animals. A little attention to the practice will be of more service than all the theory that can be given; and found very useful, more particularly in the country.
Take the small Fillets found in the inside of the Loins, which are called Filets Mignons, viz. Favourite; cut them into small bits, beat them flat with the handle of a knife, and marinate them about an hour in a little Oil, with chopped Parsley, green Shallots, Mushrooms, Pepper, and Salt; make the Herbs stick to them as much as possible, and strew them over with Bread Crumbs; broil them over a slow fire, and baste with Oil or Butter; serve under, a clear Sauce of Veal Gravy, with a little Verjuice, or a Lemon Squeeze; or with any other Sauce.
Cut a Neck of Pork which has been kept some time, and pare the Stakes properly; you may dress them in the same manner, in every respect, as Veal Cutlets, and in as many different ways; serving them with any sorts of stewed Greens or Sauces.
Take what quantity of Tongues you think proper, cut the Roots off, and scald them just enough to peel; then salt them with common Salt and Saltpetre, and put them close in a Pan with. chopped Parsley, Shallots, Thyme, Laurel, Basil, Coriander, Juniper Berries, a small quantity of each; lay a weight upon them to press them tight, cover the Salting-pan close, and let them remain in a cool place for about ten days; then take the Tongues out of the Seasoning, stuff them into Hog's Guts or Beef's, tie them up close, and hang them in the chimney-to dry: When you want to use them, boil them in half Water and Wine, with a faggot of sweet Herbs, a few Cloves, and sliced Onions: Let them cool in their Liquor.
N. B. The Coal Fire will not give that flavour to any of those dried Sausages or Cervelats, etc. etc. as those have which are imported from Germany or Italy; but whoever would make atrial here in any out-house with Saw-dust and sweet Herbs dried, will come very near to them. The Juniper-tree is much used abroad for this purpose.