This section is from the book "The Professed Cook: Or, The Modern Art Of Cookery, Pastry, And Confectionary", by B. Clermont. Also available from Amazon: The professed cook.
Morels are much of the same nature as Mush-rooms; they grow in shady places, and are only to be had in the spring: They require a deal of attention to clean them properly, being very sandy.-By the Description the Author gives of Mousserons and Champignons, it seems, that one nation or the other is mistaken in the appellation; as I apprehend, that Mushrooms is literally translated from Mousserons. He says, that Mousserons are found in shady mossy places, that they are smaller than the Champignons, reddish on the outside, and white underneath: He calls them also a species of Champignons, of an excellent flavour and taste. I have already taken notice of their uses. - The best Champignons are those that grow on hot beds; they ought to be very white and firm, and used very fresh; they are of very great utility in Cookery, and to add to their merit, may be obtained almost all the year.
Wash them in several warm Waters, and pour them from one Pan to another, to beat the sand out; when well drained, put them into a Stew-pan, with a good quantity of Butter, a spoonful of Oil, coarse Pepper, Salt, chopped Parsley, and Shallots; simmer on a slow Fire till they are done, and serve them upon a piece of Bread cut as a toast, and fried in Butter.
Take large Morells, and when properly cleaned, stuff them with a Farce made of roasted Poultry and Seasoning as usual; braze them with a few slices Veal, Ham, Lard, and a faggot of sweet Herbs: When done tender, take them out, wipe the Fat off; and keep them warm; add a little Consommee to the Sauce, boil together a moment, skim it, sift it in a Sieve, and add a Lemon Squeeze: Serve upon the Morells.
Cut about a quarter of a pound of middling Bacon, and soak it in a Stew-pan till it is done: have large Morells well washed, cur each of them in two, and give them a few turns in the same Pan, after taking the Bacon out, and putting a little Butter to the Fat; then take them out, and marinate them some time in Oil, melted Butter, chopped Parsley, Shallots, coarse Pepper and Salt; roll them in Bread Crumbs, and skewer them on small Skewers to broil slowly, basting with the remainder of the Marinade, and the Fat of the Bacon and Butter in which they were tossed; put the slices of Bacon singly on the Table-dish, and the Morells upon them: Serve in this manner without Sauce.
being both dressed alike. When they are properly cleaned and washed, put them into a Stew-pan, with a spoonful of Oil, a good bit of Butter, two or three spoonfuls of Cullis, half a glass of white Wine, chopped Parsley, Shallots, Pepper and Salt; garnish the Dish with fried Bread.
They are first done in Butter, then Cream is added sufficiently, with a faggot of sweet Herbs, and a little Salt; reduce the Sauce pretty thick: When ready to serve, make a Liaison with Yolks of Eggs, and more Cream if necessary; take out the Faggot, and serve upon Bread fried in Butter, or such pieces as are directed for Epinars en Tabatieres.