This section is from the book "The Professed Cook: Or, The Modern Art Of Cookery, Pastry, And Confectionary", by B. Clermont. Also available from Amazon: The professed cook.
Peel and stone two pounds of ripe Apricots; soak them pretty dry on the Fire, and mash them very fine; add a pound of Sugar prepared a la grande Plume, (ninth Degree) stir them well together on the Fire, till the Paste quits the Spoon; finish it directly in the moulds, and dry it rather hotter than the former Paste. - It is done also, by adding an equal weight of raw Powder-sugar, when the Fruit is soaked some time pretty dry, and stirring continually, till it is come to a good consistence on the Fire; finish as the last.
Peel and stone the Peaches, and cut them into dice; refine half as much Sugar in weight as Peaches, to the ninth Degree; then boil both together to bring them to a Paste, and put it in moulds directly to dry in the Stove.
Boil them with a little Water to a Marmalade, and sift them in a Sieve; put the Juice upon the Fire again to dry it to a Paste, taking care to stir it continually; add as much Sugar, boiled au Casse, (twelfth Degree) as the Paste weighed, mix them well together on a slow Fire, and finish as usual.
Grain the Grapes, and boil them a moment with a little Water, the Kettle being covered; then sift as usual, and put the Juice upon the Fire again, to bring it to a strong Marmalade; weigh as much raw Sugar as the weight of the Fruit, which refine to the ninth Degree, Lagrange Plume; mix them well together upon a very slow Fire, give the Paste what form or should you please, and dry it directly.
This is done much after the same manner as the last, only that it is well bruised in the Pan before it is put to boil, sifted, and reduced as usual; mix with it as much weight of Sugar, prepared as the last, and finished in the same manner.-This is often done, by mixing about half the quantity of Apples with the Grapes, being peeled, cut into pieces, and reduced to a Marmalade; sift as usual, and dry to a Paste consistence; then add as much weight of Sugar, a la grande Plume, as the Paste, and finish as the Muscadine.
Boil ripe Quinces in Water till they are quite tender; drain and sift them as usual, and reduce the Marmalade on the Fire to a Paste consistence, stirring continually; according to the quantity of Quince Marmalade, refine a pound of Sugar, a la petit Plume, (eighth Degree) to three quarters of Quinces; mix them together upon a very slow Fire without boiling; put the Paste to what form you please directly, and dry as usual.
To make the Paste of a fine red, bake the Quinces in the Oven a long while; then peel and sift them in a Hair Sieve with strong expression; dry the Marmalade over a slow Fire a little while to about half the Consistence of a Paste; then to redden it the more, keep it a good while on a slow Ashes-fire, stirring, some time, and add a little steeped Cochineal; reduce on a slow Fire to a thick Paste, that is, till it loosens from the Pan; put as much Sugar as Marmalade or Paste, a la petit Plume, (eighth Degree) soak it a little while upon the Fire, let it cool just enough to work well with the hands, and finish directly as usual.
Boil the Chestnuts to a Marmalade in Water, and sift them as all others, or pound and sift them in a Stamine with a little Water: To the proportion of three quarters of Chestnut Marmalade, add a quarter of a pound of any other Fruit Marmalade, and an equal weight of Sugar, d la grande Plume, (ninth Degree) and work it well together to finish as usual.
Cut off the hard knobs at both ends, gore them as is done with Apples, through and through, and boil them in Water till they are tender; take them out, put them into cold Water a moment, and then drain, by pressing in a Linen Cloth to get the Water out; pound and sift them, and upon a quarter of a pound of Marmalade, put half a pound of Sugar, a la grande Plume; (ninth Degree) simmer them a while together to mix, stirring continually, and finish as all others.
Peel what quantity of Golden Pippins you think proper, cut them into halves or quarters, and boil them to a Marmalade, with a little Water; sift and reduce it upon a slow Fire to a Paste consistence, and add as much Sugar, a la grande Plume, (ninth Degree) as Marmalade; work them very well, and finish in moulds as all others. Observation fur les Pales des Fruits. Observation on Fruit Pastes. OF all the different kinds heretofore mentioned, out of Fruit-season, use Marmalade of any sorts, mixed with Sugar refined to the ninth Degree, grande Plume, viz. large Feather; simmer it a little while together upon the Fire, and put it into moulds in the same manner, to dry in a very moderate heat, turning it over now and then, to dry equally on both sides. - Paste of any other kind of Fruits may be made after this manner; observing the quantity of Sugar, according to the sharpness of the Fruit: They serve to garnish Frames in Deserts, or for Plates intermixed.