In this class we have the Pea, Potato, Tomato, Corn, Cabbage, Squash, and Lima Bean. I do not specially provide for Celery, as it follows my first crop of Peas; nor for Turnips or Endive, which follow early Potatoes. The early sown crops, for which I manure the previous season, are next located, as the Onion, Parsnip, Salsify, Beet, and Carrot Besides these I usually grow a few Egg Plants, and a small quantity of Parsley, which usually take "what ground is left." Now, besides all this, I have to save a piece of ground for my fall crops - Cabbage, Cape Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, and Savoys.

We will next talk over the best times and kinds to sow or plant I couple with the times of sowing the kinds I prefer; it will condense the chapter. Other kinds may do better in some localities. Early Walnut-leaved Potatoes require our earliest attention, as soon as the frost is out of the ground, followed closely by Prince Albert Pea, Large Yellow Onion, Curled Parsley, Salsify, Parsnips, Early Horn Carrot, Short top Radish, Butter Lettuce, Bound-leaved Spinage, Early York Cabbage (sown previous September), and Turnip Beets. April having arrived, we are ready for Mercer Potatoes, Long Salmon Radish, more Spinage, Long Red Beet, Long Orange Carrot, matoes, Egg Plants, Cucumbers and Melons, Valentine Beans, Imperial Peas, Pumpkins among the Lima Beans, White Turnip Radish, and Large Indian Lettuce. We are now well off for the season, except sowing succession crops of Peas, Beans, etc., as fast as one crop is well above the ground. The seeds of our fall crops have to be attended to by the beginning of April, when we sow on a light, warm, sheltered border, Bed and White Solid Celery, and, by the end of the month, Drumhead Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts, Purple Cape Broccoli, Bed Cabbage, and Savoy. The Strap-leaved red top Turnip and Curled Endive may be sown as soon as the early Potatoes are off - say by the end of August In September we have to sow, for the next season, Early Scotch Cauliflower (where it can be protected) and Walcheren Broccoli (nearly hardy), some Early York Cabbage, and, on the ground occupied by late Potatoes, some Prickly Spinage and a few Onion sets; the two last to be protected from the sun by a little loose straw or litter.

The preservation of crops is an important point Peas and Lima Beans can be had to a late period of the season, in pretty good order, by gathering the half-grown pods, drying them gradually in a cool, shady place, and afterwards keeping them dry and but a few degrees above freezing point Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, and Salsify, may be kept in any place not damp, and but a few degrees above freezing point, packed in loam or sand. In all these operations, the object is to keep them cool and but just dry enough to prevent evaporation. The above-named roots can be best kept packed in hills out of doors, if they can be covered so as to get at them any time in frosty weather. Turnips should always be "stowed away" in this manner; putting layers of soil between every foot in thickness of roots, to prevent fermentation. Tomatoes may be had very good till Christmas, by sowing some so as not to come to maturity till September, then to dig up the plants with their load of green fruit before it has felt the slightest frost, and hang them by their roots in a cool cellar or shed. As they are desired for use, place some of them in a very warm place in the full sunlight for a few days, and they will ripen nicely. Egg Plants may be had a good while by the same process.

Radishes may be had very late by sowing a few weeks before frost is expected, and when they are large enough to draw, throw over them a few loose branches or pea-sticks, and on these a little loose litter. The Onion keeps best tied in "ropes," and hung up in a dry, cool shed, secure from frost The Endive and White Cape Broccoli (sown in April), or Purple Cape Broccoli (sown in May), can be had till the end of the year, by being taken up before severe frost, as much soil as possible with the roots, and placed closely side by side in a dark cellar about 40° or 45° of temperature. The Endive will grow and blanch beautifully, and the Broccoli produce fair heads. Cabbage and Celery preserve best in the open air. The former may have their heads buried and the roots left out of the soil, which will effectually prevent water getting in to rot the hearts. The latter may be taken up before severe frost, and laid down horizontally, with their roots against a wall or fence, then a layer of sand or soil, another layer of Celery, and so on till completed; the whole to be covered with litter, and kept dry.

I will conclude with a few remarks on forcing. Peas can be had where there is plenty of light, and the temperature never higher than 50°; but they take so much room that they scarcely "pay." Sown in this way, in boxes, I have succeeded in having as good crops of them in March, from the stalks, as could be had in the open air in their season. Bush Beans can be had in eight weeks, in a temperature of 60°, and plenty of light, grown three together in 6-inch pots. Asparagus may be had all the winter, by taking up the roots (strong ones) in the fall, and planting them anywhere so that a temperature of 50° or 60° can be commanded - under a greenhouse stage, for instance; but the more light their place of growth, the better the crop will be in quality. Early Horn Carrots, sown in February, and protected from severe frost, will come into use weeks before the general crop. Radishes may be had very early, with a gentle bottom heat; but they must have an abundance of air, or more leaves than roots result. The Potato, like the Radish, requires an abundance of air, and a temperature not above 55°. Radishes may be sown with Potatoes, in fact. Cauliflowers also want much air.

They can then be had very early and fine, on a good bottom heat of leaves or dung, in pits out of doors; and are, in my estimation, the most productive of forced vegetables. The Cucumber and Tomato can be had easily wherever the temperature is above 60°; but not well together, as the former does best in a moist heat, while the latter will set its fruit cnly in a dry one. Lettuce can be grown under the same condition as Radishes. Rhubarb and Sea Kale may be had very early, by being forced on the ground where they grow. An enclosure being formed, boards nailed together forming square trunks about two feet long placed over each root, and about three feet of stable dung or leaves placed over the whole, is all that is required.

I hope my article is not too long; and yet I have but pointed to the cabinets in which kitchen gardening locks up her secrets, though I have endeavored at the same time to supply novices with the keys that open them. I will only add that the experience on which the above notes are thrown together, renders them applicable especially to Pennsylvania.