If you have a crop in your kitchen garden which looks sickly, water it once or twice with guano water (a handful of guano to a pail of water), stirring the soil with the hoe before applying the water.

This is the season of the year to give shape to your shrubs or plants. A little shortening-back now, on overgrown shoots, will make the dormant buds push out new shoots on parts of a shrub or tree which are deficient in foliage, so as to bring it into good shape before the season of growth is past. For small plants, that you wish to make bushy and thick, there is nothing like pinching-off the ends of the leading shoots while they are young. It gives yon thick and compact heads of leaves, instead of few and slender shoots.

Don't be discouraged at the inroad of an insect that threatens to destroy your favorite trees or plants. Set about studying its natural history, and depend upon it, if you only get a correct notion of its habits, you can soon exterminate it by a little energy and perseverance. Tobacco water will kill any iusect, if it is judiciously applied, and perseveringly repeated, however much they may seem to defy it at first. Always use it in the morning, or just at evening; for it is throwing away your ammunition to fire into the enemy's quarters in mid-day, when they are wide awake, and ready to dodge the fire.

If you want to propagate everblooming roses by cuttings, your best time is now, just as the young wood begins to harden, after the first flowers are past. A frame, sunk on the north side of a fence or wall, with a sash to cover it, will enable you to raise hundreds of roses with very little attention. Make the soil in the frame six inches deep, of rich mould, mixed with one-half fine sand. In this plant the cuttings, with a single leaf left on the top of each. Water them every evening, leaving the sash off all night, and replacing it early in the morning. In case you want them to plant out in the borders, you may let the cuttings grow in the frame where they strike all summer, covering the glass with about six inches off straw in the winter, and planting out the young plants early the next spring; but if you want them for pot culture, then, of course, plant the cuttings in pots, instead of the soil of the frame; and, in five or six weeks, they have formed new roots, to that you may repot them - one in each small pot.

To have raspberries very large and fine, yon must make a new plantation every fourth year. The soil should be trenched twenty inches deep, and a quantity ot coal ashes and stable manure turned well underneath. The raspberry likes a cool, deep soil, and a top dressing of guano every spring adds greatly to the size of the fruit.

Look over your cherry-trees, and see that none of them suffer from being hide bound. If they look unnatnrally small in any part of the trunk, and swollen in other parts, you may be sure this is the case; and if you do not relieve it by slit ting the outer bark with your knife, the tree will soon decline. Old cherry-trees are very much improved in health and productiveness by $hortening-in the long branches at this season of the year, thus forcing them to make some thrifty new shoots.

Plum-trees like a moist soil. I have found that covering the ground four inches deep with old spent tan-bark, is a good way of preserving the moisture, and keeping the tree in health. I scatter fresh lime thickly over the surface of the tan every year, as soon as the green fruit begins to fall. This kills every curculio that attempts to enter the ground. The tan prevents the weeds from growing, keeps the roots cool, and insures me good crops of plums. I spread it as far as the roots extend, and it wants renewing, or adding to, once in three or four years.

Don't indulge in the folly of hilling up all the plants you raise in your kitchen garden. If you study nature, you will see that, as plants grow older, the roots at the base of the stem always incline to raise out of the earth; from which it is clear that they prefer not to be wholly buried up in it. Besides, unless it is a plant that dislikes moisture, you lose half the benefit of the summer showers by, piling up a hill over the roots to turn off the rain. It is much better to loosen the ground thoroughly, and keep it nearly level.

Liquid manure is of great advantage to crops in a growing state; but it has double the usual effect if applied in damp and cloudy weather.

In raising hedges, the great point is to get breadth at the bottom. It is easy enough to get a hedge high enough; but if you let it run up without cutting it back, so as to make a broad and thick base, you can never make that base broad and thick afterwards. Shorten back, therefore, till you achieve what you want at the bottom, and the top will afterwards take care of itself.

If you find any of your favorite fruit-trees are failing from dryness of the season, or heat of the sun, cover the surface of the ground two or three inches deep with straw. Indeed, nothing benefits any delicate tree so much, in this climate, as keeping the roots in a uniform temperature, by this coat of straw laid on the surface of the ground.

There are few trees such gross feeders as the grape-vine. Soap suds and liquid manure, applied every week, will give an amount of luxuriance and a weight of fruit, on a single vine, that seem almost incredible. I have seen an Isabella Grape produce 3,000 fine clusters of well ripened fruit in a single season, by the liberal use of manure, and soap suds from the weekly wash.

If you wish to bring fruit-trees into bearing at an early age, pinch off the ends of the shoots now, and again at the end of six weeks. This accumulates the sap, and the surplus becomes fruit buds for the next season.

The secret of neatness and economy in summer culture of a garden, is to stir the ground often. It is a trifling task to destroy an acre of weeds, if you take them half an inch high, but a very laborious undertaking to get them subdued, if they once are allowed to make strong roots, and leaves of full size.

An old DIGGER.