This section is from "The Horticulturist, And Journal Of Rural Art And Rural Taste", by P. Barry, A. J. Downing, J. Jay Smith, Peter B. Mead, F. W. Woodward, Henry T. Williams. Also available from Amazon: Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste.
Mr. Fuller. - If the Delaware was grown under glass as well as out of doors, I should doubt its being a native.
[Then we should, for the same reason, have to doubt the nativity of the Isabella, Diana, and Catawba, but especially the last; for they have been for many years, and are still, grown under glass with the best results. We know of graperies that have for ten or more years past been pretty equally divided between the Black Hamburgh and the Citawba. - Ed].
7. When is the best time to plant evergreens, and should preference be given to small trees?
Mr. Mead. - If confined to one period, I would plant in the month of August or the beginning of September. Have planted at other seasons with good success. Would give the preference to small trees; by which, I do not mean trees a foot high, but approaching my own height, which is a very good height, Mr. Chairman.
Mr. Burgess. - I should plant from the tenth to the twentieth of June. Never lost a plant from thousands.
8. Which are the best varieties of pears for city yards, for growing against the fences, or on espaliers?
Mr. Mead. - I should not select a dozen kinds for a dozen trees, but select three or four kinds, such as Dearborn's Seedling, Belle Lucrative, Seckel, etc. Mr. Fuller. - I would plant all of one kind, the Duchesse d'Angouleme.
9. I have room for six grape vines. What kinds shall I plant to receive the best return, and at what time shall I plant them?
Mr. Mead. - A good selection would be 3 Delawares, 1 Rebecca, 1 Hartford Prolific, I Concord. [On further thought we would replace the Hartford by the Creveling for the early kind. - Ed].
Mr. Fuller. - I would make up the list all of Delawares.
Mr. Mead. - They should be planted as early this spring as possible.
10. Would the fruitfulness of blackberries, raspberries, gooseberries, and currants, be increased by bending the branches down, or training them on a fence, as the grape vine or pears are frequently done?
Mr. Mead. - They are abundantly fruitful without any trouble of that kind. Currants, if at all well grown, are literally covered with their fruit. There is nothing to be gained by growing blackberries and raspberries as espaliers.
Mr. Burgess. - Last year I got rid of the acid of currants by leaving them on till they were ripe.
11. If the gooseberry were trained to a tree shape, would it prevent mildew 1 Mr. Mead. - Do not think it would.
12. Is salt hay or grass the best mulch for the gooseberry? Can the large English kinds be grown here?
Mr. Mead. - Salt hay and grass are both considered good mulches, but they will neither of them prevent the mildew. The large English kinds can be grown here, but they mildew badly. Mr. Fuller. - The best preventive is to plant the Houghton Seedling, which does not mildew.
The next question was sent from Greenport, by Mr. J. H. Jackson. 13. If not contrary to your rules, may I ask you to inquire of your society, at the next meeting, what are the best varieties of pears to plant for market purposes - say 1000 trees - at what distances should they be planted each way, and any information besides the members may give. No doubt there are many others who wish the same information, and some of your practical men can tell me through the reports of your meeting. Mr. Mead. - A pretty extensive question this. I should not like to hazard my reputation by answering it impromptu. It was passed to the next meeting.
14. Can the hardy Yuccas be easily grown from seed, and are there any varieties with red flowers?
Mr. Mead. - The Yucca can be grown from seed, but it does not vegetate very rapidly. I know of none with red flowers.
Mr. Burgess. - I have seen plenty of seedlings come up around large plants in England.
Mr. Fuller. - I raised ten thousand seedlings for a double and a red flower. I had all the varieties; none were distinct enough to propagate. There was neither a double nor a red flower.
Mr. Cavanach. - The seed will come up here. I have an example in my garden.
15. What is the botanical name of the Chinese tallow tree, and will it grow here in the open ground?
Mr. Fuller. - It is called Stillingia.
16. Can the apricot or nectarine be grown in city yards without protection? and, if so, what are the best varieties of each for that purpose?
Mr. Mead. - The Apricot and Nectarine can be grown in city yards. The Boston is one of the best, for hardiness. The Early Violet and Newingten are also good.
17. Is it a generally received opinion among pomologists that fruit grown larger than its natural size, is deficient in flavor?
Mr. Mead. - There is a good deal of ingenuity shown, Mr. Chairman, fa framing some of these questions. Some of them are well calculated to bring a man out. I will say in answer, that an overgrown specimen of fruit is generally considered coarse and deficient in flavor.
18. In pruning a vine trained upon an arbor, how many eyes should be left if it be pruned in the spring?
Mr. Burgess. - I recommend the person asking that question to employ a practical gardener.
Mr. Mead. - This question naturally leads us to the subject of the evening's discussion. Whether I pruned in the autumn or in the spring, I would leave at least three buds to a spur; the lower bud for the purpose of making a new cane, the middle bud to be rubbed out, and the third bud for producing the fruit. The practice is to cut down to a single bud. The reason for leaving three buds is the simple fact that the third, fourth, fifth, or sixth bud will produce larger and better fruit than the first or second. (This mode of pruning was illustrated on one of Mr. Chamberlain's vines).
Mr. Cavanach. - I think two eyes much better. Mr. Fuller pursues this system. Pruning to three eyes will make the wood too long; the second year will raise the wood about five to six inches above the main wood.
Mr. Mead. - So far as mere appearances are concerned, it does not matter whether the spur is one or five inches long. A spur pruned vine is not a beauti-ful object; at best it looks like an Irishman's ahillaleh. I spoke of the three eyes because it is a fact that we can get better fruit from the third or fourth eye than we can from the first or second. The spur lengthens this way no faster than it does by pruning to two eyes; and if it did, it would not be a difficult matter to produce a new spur. I should not hesitate to cut the largest vine on this island down to within a foot of the ground, for I should have the certainty of getting a multitude of shoots. Have done this repeatedly. The shoots thus produced are barren, and will bear no fruit till the second year. (He then explained how this barren wood could, by pinching in and causing a bud to break, be converted into fruitful wood the first year).
After some further talk it was determined to omit the miscellaneous business at the next meeting, and continue the subject of Spring Pruning.
 
Continue to: