The Bell Cranberry is that which is mostly desired by cultivators, but even experienced men are often at a loss to distinguish the vine on which it grows from the Bugle or the Cherry. If found in the middle of a swamp in its wild state it will invariably throw off the runner toward the driest part of the bog. Hence it is found on the edges most frequently. When it is transplanted and brought under cultivation, it is true to the same law, and will send its suckers up the banks of the yard, and these will yield well. The inference drawn from this is, that it can be cultivated on upland soils adapted to its wants, even should it not be overflowed, and is therefore best adapted for general cultivation. Lay out the grounds as you would for setting out cabbage, strawberry or other plants - have a pointed stick or dibble, and make a hole for the plant - have the roots immersed in muddy water so thick as to adhere to the root - place it in the hole from three to four inches under ground, and press the dirt very closely around it.

To have the rows uniform, draw a line and put the plants, 18 by 20 inches, in rows - where small patches are desired which can be kept clean with a hoe; the nearer they are together, the quicker they cover the ground - but where acres are planted it will save much labor by putting them 2 to 2 1/2 feet apart, then a plough or harrow can be used to keep out the grass and weeds. After one or two years' cultivation to keep out the grass, they will take care of themselves. At 18 inches apart, it will take 19,000 plants; 2 feet 10,000; 2 1/2 feet, 7,000 plants to the acre. They can be planted out in the fall at the North from September until the ground freezes, or in the spring until the middle or last of May. At the South and West, if possible, they should be planted out in autumn and December; if received too late for planting out, the roots can be covered with dirt in a box or in a cellar (but not in the ground out of door) until early in spring. As it is often late before we can start the plants, and the great press of freight often delays them beyond a desirable time, if not ordered in the fall, they will always be forwarded as early as possible in the spring.

The transportation of 10,000 plants to Chicago, Cincinnati or Harrisburg will be about $2 - 1,000 to 5,000 plants, from $1 to $1.50. Where land for Cranberry culture can be overflowed (which is by no means necessary), fall is the best time to plant them out, but where there is no overflow, I am satisfied that they can be planted out in early spring as well as fall. Every family can have their garden patch in that case, and in dryish soil grass, meadow muck or tan around the plant will be beneficial to retain the moisture. They are highly ornamental in pots - the fruit hanging on the plants until the blossom appears for the next crop. The first year they often bear 50 bushels to the acre, and increase every year, until sometimes they bear from 200 to 300 bushels per acre, perhaps the net average is from 100 to 150 bnshels per acre. They usually bring from $2 to $4 per bushel - never less than $2 - this year they are worth from $4 to $6 per bushel. Cultivated fruit is less likely to be affected with drought than wild fruit.

One man with a rake made for the purpose will gather from thirty to forty bushels a day, with a boy to pick up the scattering ones.

Any information wanted further than is given above, will be furnished on application by letter - and orders for plants will be promptly attended to, and packed in moss so as to forward them safely to any part of the Union.

Cranberry Culture #1

The cultivation of the Cranberry is now engaging the attention of many horticulturists; and, considering the amount of labor required, and the sure and certain market for it, which can never be supplied, as it is almost the only article of fruit that can safely be exported or can be taken on long sea-voyages, it will always prove a profitable crop. The cultivation of the Cranberry possesses an advantage also in the fact that it can be raised on land that is of but little value. It is, however, necessary, in order to be perfectly successful, to have the ground well prepared before planting out. The best land for Cranberries is a moist, sandy loam, with a wet stratum twelve inches from the surface, or near some brook or stream. If quite wet, it should be drained, and the drain so made, if convenient, as to flood the ground when required, that the water can cover the plants in winter and until late enough in the spring to prevent the frost killing the blossoms. If very dry when the fruit is setting, the water should be let on and off; and again, also in August or first of September, if necessary.

The above are all the advantages of flooding them.

As the plant lives on air and water, it will do well under such treatment. If the land can not be drained, and has a peat, muck, or shaky bottom, it should, if possible, be covered with two to four inches of sand, (sea-side sand is best,) which, being open and porous, admits water freely, and helps retain it in the soil below. The plants, when set out, should always be below the sand four to .five inches under ground. Shallow planting has been the cause of most of the failures which have occurred. The sand also tends to prevent the grass and weeds from growing rank, and the plants are easier kept clear, which is all the care needed in their cultivation.

The process of raising them from seed is very slow, and is not advisable. The vines are sometimes gathered, cut up into pieces, and sowed in rows as you would peas. Another plan is to take up sods and bunches of roots; but in this way foul weeds, grass, etc., are taken up with them. The best way is to plant single roots deep in the ground. The stem will also take root, and give a strong growth to the plant, and much larger fruit. For field-planting, the plants should be set about two feet apart in the rows, and two feet between the rows; it will then take about 10,000 plants to the acre. In gardens and small plots, they can be put out from one foot to eighteen inches apart, and the ground will be much sooner covered.

In putting them up, care is taken to select bearing plants, (the largest, rankest plants, with green leaves, are usually barren; the bearing plants are more slender, with the leaf somewhat brown;) these are tied in bunches of one hundred each, with moss, and packed in moss for transportation. They can be sent in this way to any part of the world. They can also be forwarded at any time of the year, as they are very tenacious of life. If in the winter, and they get frozen in the moss, cover the roots in soil until thawed. At the small price for which they are now sold, it is more* desirable to purchase the plants than attempt to gather them. The best variety for all soils, except very wet ones, is the common Bell variety; they are earlier than any other kind, and will thrive in tolerably dry soil with care. They are sold by some dealers for upland. A strictly upland variety has not been found, unless it be the small Newfoundland variety, which at present can not be procured in quantity. The Cherry variety will only grow on very wet land; it is larger, but later, and not as good a bearer. From one hundred and fifty to two hundred bushels have usually been gathered from an acre.

If the above is of any use to those who wish to grow the fruit, you may make such use of it as you please.

Cranberry Culture #1

The cranberry interests of New Jersey are now far ahead of her strawberry culture, and on a decidedly safer footing. The crop of one county alone, (Ocean Co.) lust year was 25,000 bushels, valued at $100,000, while the entire production of the State is near 40,000 bushels.

Growers have to contend with two enemies of the cranberry, viz: two kinds of worms and grasshoppers; a flock of turkeys will kill the latter when small, and timely flooding will prevent the ravages of the former.